Don't you think Total $1071 would be a nicer number GR

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"Show me the Mini!"

Or even $1098

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$1275 - He said he wanted it to be similar to a 1275

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Nick

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=86675

Just to point out that the prices GR has just mentioned is not the full cost of building the motor. Just saying this so people don't think they will get that engine built for $1000. How much more depends on the current condition of the engine.

Trying to keep this inline with your question.
So far you don't have a mini at all, and quoting "low n blown" a 1275 mini is worth more/cost more to buy than any 1100 mini so this initial price difference should be taken into account. Lets say it's a $1500 price difference ok (but it could easily be more).
So straight out of the gate if you buy an 1100 mini you already have $1500 extra spending money which is more than maching and parts cost.
I can't help with drive in, drive out costs, I (and a lot of the guys on here) have been quoting just the machining costs so what a shop would charge in labour could easily be another $1000-2000 on top of the quoted $1000 machine/parts cost.
A side note, my 1275 A+ engine put out 45bhp at the wheels and my old 998 did 31bhp at the wheels. The 1275 cost me $1500 + another $1300 for the disc brakes so that cost me $2800 just for the items + a full weekend of my time in the garage to put it all together.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

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Have a Nice Day.
If already having a nice day please disregard.

kennomini... thanks man thats pretty much all i was looking for lol...

.....and it all depends on how you will drive your mini too.
A worked 1100 might be more of a pig than a stocko 1275.
I have built a few stock 1275s and they are very usable.

found another two cents

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Just one more comment.

If you rebuild your 1100 to Gr specs you dont have to get your car re certified (oz engineered) and you dont
Have any insurance issues with modified engines.

Thats got to be $3k saving in insurance premiums and cert costs.

And you also free up some storeage space by using the engine from the car.

Kiwiinwgtn

Kiwi,
In most Oz states we can fit a 1275 without external certification. Provided that you fit front disc brakes too.
It's not like you are bunging a VTEC or Toyota in it.
In NSW, it just needs a blue slip inspection (which is an annual pink slip safety inspection + they check new engine number on database).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If I were trying to compare engine output vs cost I'd graph it. Initially you will find the 1100 modified vs the 1275 std will be easy to compare. But as you climb in output the cost will climb significantly higher BUT, the 1275 will have the edge and probably be marginally cheaper at the fast end of the spectrum.

There is no replacement for displacement. You can argue power adders all you want but the simple fact is a larger displacement can make more power than a smaller displacement.

Hi TK went scratching around in the garden found some more 2c.
With this new 266ss it holds full load down at 1500rpm so it would drive as smooth as a glass of GRANDFATHER port and that is smooth Come on stop fighting it you know you want to build one, take the step, don't be scared of getting hooked like I have and so many others it's a fact of life SMALL BORES ARE COOL come on i'll even help you with parts, come on put all big ugly 1275 in the corner of the shed and come and play, put that smile back on your dial join the colt don't be left sitting on the rock saying " yea but i gota 1255" and not having fun with us join the trend, life's to short, don't miss out on the all the fun come on down.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

GR,
Don't get me wrong I've built a couple of very nice 998s that scream (that is for a 998).
gotta loan for this post.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Hi TK
Why don't you give me a ring after all it is Christmas.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

This discussion is exactly what interests me as mine has a 1098 at the moment and i have a spare 1098 engine minus a head sitting in the shed.

Here's a couple of questions ...
How reliable would this setup be if i wanted to track it? Obviously that depends abit on how i treat it, but what sort of engine life should you expect??

And secondly, how much approximately will i need to save to go from a standard running 1098 that i have now, to a setup like this.
The maximum that i would be keen on doing myself would be pulling the engine in/out of the car, and taking it off and back on the gearbox.

I am not looking for exact quotes...
just a rough guide so i know how much i will need to save

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Tim
Dusk Blue
1964 850