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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:26 am 
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re the nitriding corrosion comments-
My other EN40B 10/10 crank laid under my boss's house in the dirt for 14 years before I got it back.
I polished it with 180 paper, found it still within grinding limits and smooth, then used it.
It's been in 3 rebuilds since- and it's still at -010/-010 size.
Bugger won't wear out...:mrgreen:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 8:54 am 
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WOW, sorry, off topic a little!
I was looking at the video that Matt put up, and saw this!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEf8va1S7Sw&feature=related

I've never seen this before, pretty interesting I reckon.

:D back to topic now...

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 1:07 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
GR,
re these 8 counterweight race cranks that you get made- no doubt they should run smoother, but has anybody cracked or broken one yet?


wait until they have done 100,000 + miles, had the guts thrashed out of them, re-ground a few times and then see.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 1:54 pm 
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http://scarbsf1.com/valves.html

Matt ,have a read of this site. It's a basic set-up but I tried a similar thing on a engine sometime ago.
The buckets were some bits I found in a machinery scrap yard and the piston buckets[ones fitted over guides] I machined up and fitted a vitron quad ring for the seal.

The bases had a air line connected and I used some banjo non return v/v's out of a early BMW fuel injection system. The air supply was just off the workshop compressor via regulator.

Inital air pressure was set at 40psi but at around 5000 revs the v/vs had a bit of a flutter and were not seating too well.
I went to 70psi and it ran very well apart from a few air leaks from the seals/fittings. The engine ran a lot smoother and quieter. But then, give it sh*t and bumped the air up to 100 psi and full noise unloaded. The push rods started to bend. The problem was a too small final compression volume. Pressure was up to 280-320 psi.

Ok you need to work out what force is required to keep the valve seated as a starting point. Then work out the maximum v/v travel.
Now P1xV1xT1 =P2xV2xT2 this will give you the pressure change due to volume reduction. Temp is not that critical.
Then from the pressure you can calculate the force on the piston bucket.
Force =pressure x area.

If you play around with various inital and final volumes then the force can be adjusted . Don't have the final compressed volume too small as the pressure will be excessive. You can plot a graph for different volumes, pressures, and forces. for the v/v travel.

The beauty with this set-up is that you have a "variable spring" rate by adjusting the initial pressure, but the air compression is "softer" than a mechanical spring [no vibrations]
It would need some thinking about in regards to seals and lubrication. I did not take it much further too many other projects.
For a performance engine it would not be too hard or costly to make. Getting the maths right in regards to volumes etc is the critical thing.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 3:55 pm 
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Phat Kat wrote:
I suspect, (and I says suspect, I don't know for sure off the top of my head but will look into it and let you know) that as is the case with the idea that its a "rust proofing", that yes, there is a measurable difference in tensile strength, but its not as dramatic as the improvement in surface hardness... It might only be a few Mpa... I don't know I'll have a look and come back.


Alrighty I went through a few of the books at work that go into nitriding and none of them provide any specific data or numbers on any improvement in tensile strength. Infact, older books make no references to increase in fatigue life... Infact, no publication makes reference to increase fatigue life, though I have heard others mention it too.

They'll all tell you that you can get between 800 HV and 1200 (and some even 1500). But no other data.

Interestingly the Bohler Heat Treatment book states in regards to Nitriding:

"It has for some time been a practice to nitride tool steels intended for special applications in order to increase their wear life. Nitriding increases the surface hardness which improves the wear resistance of the tools.... It should be borne in mind, however, that a nitrided layer is exceedingly brittle, so that it will prove only advantageous for jobs where no shock is involved"

As hardness goes up, almost all other mechanical properties go down (Sheer strenght, tensile strength, ductility...). About the only one that "increases" is brittlness.

EN40B, is an alloy steel. Its alloyed with Manganese, Chromium and Molybdenum to increase its shock resistance. The appeal with alloy steels is that they can be case hardened and remain tough. However, case harden it too deep, and it will still become brittle.....

(For eveyone else reading, Nitriding, Tufftriding and all other forms of Nitrocarburizing are all "case hardening" processes, they create a hard layer or skin around a softer core.)

..... back to where I was going with mechanical properties..... By only case hardning it to a shallow depth, you're allowing the core to remain tough, meaning that you now effectively have the best of both worlds, a tough but wear resistant materal. The deeper you harden it, the less tough it and the more brittle it becomes.

<edit 2> I would infact go so far as to say, nitriding seems to do nothing for torsional fatigue.

Matt wrote:
as a side note (because someone mentioned corrosion resistance) we`ve left a pile of cranks out in the weather in the paddock (Literally for years & years & years) & the well hardened ones don`t have rust on them , except where the wear on the journals have broken the hardening crust, or where they have been chipped/banged etc... i should take a photo of them all as it really is THAT obvious


Matt, I don't doubt that for a second. EN40B and most steels that are used for this app have a high(ish) chromium content which gives it a fantastic resistance to corrosion. Nowww.... if there are any bright spark smart arses reading this, they'll pull me up right now and say "OI! YOU! you can't nitride steel that does have at least some Cr in it! So whats with this crap about rusty nitrided Dies?"..... and you'd be right, but if it has an appropriate amount of other elements such as Moly, you can get away with having less Cr in it. I was half wrong, it wasn't dies that I had seen it was pillars for high volume press tools. I may even have some in the shed :? ... when it cools down I'll go have a look and take some snaps if I can.

<edit> I'm not saying nitriding does nothing for rust resistance.... just that its not to be confused with rust proofing... nitrided surfaces hold up 5 times better than non treated ones


Last edited by Phat Kat on Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 4:04 pm 
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david rosenthal wrote:
http://scarbsf1.com/valves.html

Matt ,have a read of this site. It's a basic set-up.....



It's a fascinating concept. There was a great article in Auto Speed on it many years ago. Much has changed under the sun, but its still an interesting read.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_0910/article.html

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:04 pm 
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You went on about not being able to nitride steel with out chromium in it but you forgot about the most IMPORTANT PART for NITRIDEING that is ALUMINIUM for this is what the nitriding follows in to get the depth with out it it will just sit on the top of the steel also if you have any NICKEL in the steel it will reject the nitriding.
En40/b is the only steel for proper nitriding, now we have a lot of cranks made by Arrows of formula one fame and Cosworth for our historic motors and guess what they will only make them out of EN40 B and nitride them, now 50 years ago a little firm [BMC] wanted to build the best crankshafts for their little competion motors after many millions of dolllars they came up with the EN40b steel with .060 of nitriding for strenth and stiffnes but this was before the net came along may be these three companies should have waited and learnt how to make crankshafts now here's a little some thing ENGLAND is the only country in the world to make EN40b, but wait theres more the yanks make 99%of there cranks out of 4340 or 4140 but wait there's more they now make 4140 with 1% aluminium so they can nitride it but wait there's even more 4140 does not have any nickel in it but 4340 does.
Now heres one for you a new steel that the drag boys are now using is H13 which is a TOOL steel :lol: but you could never make a crank out of tool steel could we. Sure you could, if you had $5k for the billet, then machining and design on top to do a V8 crank.
GRaham Russell

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 6:54 pm 
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sgc wrote:
Guys, please. Let's keep it civil?


Keep it civil.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:03 pm 
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GR wrote:

with the EN40b steel with .060 of nitriding for strenth and stiffnes


So if it's 0.060" in depth (which is not possible BTW), why then do BMC themselves recomend re-nitride treatment at 0.020" re-grind intervals? and re-nitriding to a depth of 0.012 to 0.015"?

Remember, keep it civil.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:13 pm 
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Hi GT MOWOG
I have the piece of crank here come down and get it and you have the depth checked by some body as i have, they measured it at .060 tho. deep.
Graham Russell

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:25 pm 
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Graham,

That does not answer my question;

GT mowog wrote:


So if it's 0.060" in depth (which is not possible BTW), why then do BMC themselves recomend re-nitride treatment at 0.020" re-grind intervals? and re-nitriding to a depth of 0.012 to 0.015"?



I'll send you the name and address of our NATA registered Laboritory. If you could be so kind to send it there at my cost. I will return it once tested.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:29 pm 
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Chris
I don't knowI'll send it for you.
Graham

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:37 pm 
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WOW :shock: This is epic

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:41 pm 
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GR wrote:
Chris
I don't knowI'll send it for you.
Graham

Sorry i can send it straight to you if you like i have your address.
Graham

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:45 pm 
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If you could be kind enough to send it to:

Sydney Mechanical testing Laboritory,
6 Nello Place,
Wetherill Park

Mark it attention Stephen. I'll let him know to expect it.

You are still dodging the question. Stop with all your non-sence and name calling rubbish;-

GT mowog wrote:
Graham,

That does not answer my question;

GT mowog wrote:


So if it's 0.060" in depth (which is not possible BTW), why then do BMC themselves recomend re-nitride treatment at 0.020" re-grind intervals? and re-nitriding to a depth of 0.012 to 0.015"?


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