G'day,

Have got the rear subframe in and radius arms in place and now working on the wheel bearings. I bought a set of Timken tapered rollers and have an issue with insufficient pre-load on the drivers side. Even with the nut damn tight, the hub still spins freely and there is a slight movement of the hub on the shaft - i.e the bearings are not tight enough. The passenger side one is ok and pre-load is about right with the nut done up fairly firm. The bearing packs where not mixed up from new.

The bearings are the ones with the spacer on each cone. I've read here (comments from Doc I think) that these spacers are hard and not easily reduced and not like the front spacers where I needed to take a whisker off them to get them right.

I'm thinking that the spacers are too big and not allowing the cones to come up against the cups. Am I right?

If so, and the spacer bit can't be easily adjusted like the front ones, do I need a shim perhaps behind one of the cups? If that's the answer, then I need help with:

1/. Where do I start looking for a suitable shim?
2/. Do I only need a shim on one of the cups?
3/. Would I be better off buying another bearing set and trying that?

Thanks, Rocky

I wouldn't shim the cup(S) I would get the "spacer" of the bearing ground 5 thou or so to give clearance when assembled. More won't matter.
You can then adjust them as for a trailer hub, finger tight then pin it.
It's not a drive hub assembly, so there is no mechanical reason to torque the nut tight like front hubs.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc - I knew you'd have a simple solution.

Can I just grind a bit off one of the cones on a bench grinder? I'm thinking that if the spacers are no longer in contact with one another, then a flat, parallel surface isn't required anymore. Is that right?

My plan of attack then would be to grind a bit off, wash the bearings and clean and then re-grease. Would that work?

As a side issue, why do the rear bearings have the spacer at all? When I do the bearings on the caravan, they just have a bearing set on the inner and outer and you adjust them as you've indicated.

Appreciate your help once again.

Rocky

Sure, go for it. I would use my linisher but side of a wheel will work. Measure with a vernier or micrometer so you keep it approx parallel.

Rear spacer is there due to Briddish engineering..!

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Doc - I'll take it easy and check as I go.

Meh... You don't need rollers at the back. About a hundred year ago i was loading up the car for a motorkhana when I noticed a loose rear wheel. Diagnosis?? stuffed bearing. Solution.. a ball bearing of something down in the spare parts park..

The same bearing has done god knows how many miles over the last 25 years and is still within spec.

There are lots of occasions where the fancy solution is overkill.

Cheers, Ian

Ian,
The old bearings were nearly flogged out and the passenger side hub nut was loose so I had to replace them. I thought the tapered ones would be easier
Mate up the road is going to knock a few thou off them with a surfacer (I think that's what he called it but could be wrong). He's a retired fitter and turner who used to work at the Ford factory and now works on old pommy motorbikes for a hobby.
Should all be sorted by the weekend hopefully.

Cheers, Rocky

Ian, I agree, I ran ball bearings for over 50 years.
But..
It's getting harder to find ball rear wheel bearings. Cheap noname tapered rollers seem to have replaced them over here. These are very cheap now. Unlike Timkens...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Update on the fix.
Had 15 thou taken off the the passenger side outer cone spacer. This was the side that when the nut was tight, the hub nearly locked up but it was difficult to try to set pre-load. With the 15 thou off, I was able to nip the bearings tight and then back off and set ok.
Before doing the driver's side one, I put the machined passenger side cone in the driver's side hub to check if 15 thou was enough to take up the slack. I didn't tighten things right up but with just a gentle nip of the nut, there was still a bit of play. This was the side that with the nut done up damn tight, there was play in the hub.
So took 35 thou of the driver's side outer cone spacer and all good.
Mate did the machining on a lathe.
Back hubs on and ready for the next step.

Thanks for your help Doc.

Rocky