I am trying to help my son get his 1968 Cooper S ready for acid dipping, we purchased a couple of doors that do not look too bad with rust, our problem is there was the long bar that goes from the front door handle to the latch area at the back, have finally removed the log bar, but the section left is HYA3068 in the Mini Kingdom catalogue and it is too big (wide/long) to get out from behind the lower section of the window track. Is there some trick to remove this or have we got the wrong doors? I am looking at pulling the original doors apart to see if they are the same, but hoping that these are the correct doors as they look exactly the same in all respects.

Graham

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1974 Leyland Clubman
Lots of good machines

Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.

No need to remove it. You can get the doors blasted with it in place. Most doors that have been stripped still have that part in place.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Thanks winabbey, that is what I thought, but son wants is acid dipped and the one that does the dipping says that if there is anything loose inside the doors he will not do them. Offered to tie it up tightly with wire, but still no go and there is no room to get it out around the window channel.

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1974 Leyland Clubman
Lots of good machines

Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.

I did remove one once, many years ago, I think I cut the window channel at the bottom?
Memory is a bit hazy now...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My understanding is most Mini restorers use media blasting to remove paint. This method enables you to avoid the internals of the door completely as that area is not visible upon completion and doesn't need to go back to bare metal. Acid dipping will remove any protective coating applied by the Rotodip originally so chances are the door internals will be more likely to rust if you don't treat them, and that could be problematical as access is tight.

The bottom of the glass channel is secured by a machine screw. When removed there may be room to get the link lever part out.

Just spoke to John Smidt (Mini King) and he strongly advises not acid dipping and not removing the link lever. Depending on the acid used and the neutraliser (usually caustic) there will be residue in the seams and tight areas, especially where the sheet metal is folded. This is a perfect location for rust. He also confirmed that removing and replacing the link lever is not an easy job. You can possibly do damage to the lever and/or the door.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

As first stated I am just helping and getting myself into a it of a problem with decisions, but as it stands the person who is doing the body work is coming to have a look and possibly pick the doors up tomorrow. He prefers acid dipping as it allows him to do better welds on sections that require repair. I have forwarded your information winabbey on so my son can have a look. I was not a fan of dipping, but it is not my car so I try to stay out of the decision making process. Thanks all for the information.

Graham

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1974 Leyland Clubman
Lots of good machines

Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.

Assuming you are referring to the bracket that wraps around the vertical window guide.
From memory I took these out on my S.
I removed the bolt that secures the lower end of this widow guide to the door.
Somehow flexed the lower end of the window guide a few mm away from the door frame.
Then jiggled / pushed the bracket down the guide and over the end of it.

Graham - I understand your situation. In my opinion there's no 'absolutely correct' and "only way to do it" way when working on the beloved Mini. Some do it this way, others do it that way. Whatever suits a situation given knowledge, funds, time-frame, contacts, desired quality, etc.

As IndigoBlueCoopers says you can get the link out so push on if that's the best approach for your son. Regardless he should be supported and encouraged to continue efforts to get another mighty Mini back on the road and providing enjoyment.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

Acid dipping ? You need an alkali dipping, better still the correct blasting material much cheaper. Also acid would get into the seams and you would never get it out. I only use blasting from a blaster that knows what he is doing .After the body or panels are clean use a 2 pack epoxy primer no etch,
Allen

I have removed the interlock lever, like IndigoBlueCooperS has described. Bit of a struggle.
Other than satisfying the acid dip operator, the only reason for removing the lever might be to weld up the square holes where the external door pin and the door latch square peg have worn and allow excess movement needed at the door handles to open the doors, especially on well used units.

IndigoBlueCooperS and Bill B, thanks for posting this, helped me a lot this morning. Planning to do a door test fit before painting.
Have painted multiple windup window doors over the years but have never removed the lock linkage assembly, the bracket which warps around the rear vertical window guide and its link rod.
Current project has both doors completely stripped by previous owner. First step was finding which part went with each door, the lock linkage assembly, the remote control assembly and the link (rod). Have assembled the passenger door, about to do same for driver's door. After refitting the lock linkage assembly bracket, I think I'll remove the remote control assembly only and cable tie the other bits out of the way for painting. Very glad I didn't have to do this fiddling around with a newly painted door. Never too old to learn something new.

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Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2

Once again thanks to all who have answered. The person doing the restoration came and had a look today at the body and the doors and other bits and was surprised that the car was not as bad as described. He has taken the doors to remove the annoying bits and has spoken to my son who has agreed to go with the acid bath. It is an alkaline solution with a small electric current, I have used this method in restoring old stationary engines in the past at home. He has used Redi-strip for many years on the cars that he restores and he does veteran, vintage and classics. He has some panels that were done with this method many years ago that have been removed due to accident damage and there is no sign of any rust in seams.

He was involved at Bathurst in the repair of Mini's that were damaged on practice day prior to the big race back in the 1960's and he is still going strong and was a pleasure to listen and talk to.
So finally I am now out of the decision making which makes me feel a whole better.

Graham

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1974 Leyland Clubman
Lots of good machines

Of all the things I have lost, I miss my mind the most.