Hello,

I am after a few measurements if anyone can help please? I need to reconstruct my inner doorskins to replace the regulators but need a datum to work to. I also need to source appropriate regulators, can anyone provide some dimensions as per the attached photographs?

Skin:

I am not sure where is the best to measure from, but I would need the location for the four regulator mounting holes if possible please? Is the depth of this pressing the same as the pressing for the internal latch above it? It looks more recessed in that photo but hard to be sure. The photo of the door skin was taken from Morbo 28's thread, I hope this is ok!



Regulator:
Red -
Orange -
Blue -
Purple -
Yellow -

The depth of the pressing for the window regulator (from the main surface level) is 15mm.
The depth of the door remote control pressing is 6mm.

Regarding a reference point for measurements - how much of the original inner door skin do you have? For example, do your doors have either of the 2 trim mounting holes near the leading edge of the doors - 1 is just visible in your photo.

Hello Bill,

Thank you for that, it did look deeper but working from photographs it is hard to tell, it could have been due to the difference in pressing profiles.

Regarding a reference point; please see attached photographs. The door pockets have since been removed, as have the regulators etc. The white one certainly is worse; it appears the holes to the side are original (door card clips?) and are un-touched since. All remnants of the pressing for the regulator are gone, however I believe some of it has been flattened off on the red door.




If you also had a regulator to hand, would you be able to count the amount of teeth on the main gear please? I think it is around 30, but again this is based purely on photographs. I have two donors (currently) and they are around 30 and 40, but nice to keep it as close as possible to avoid any throw issues later.

Thank you

The window regulator quadrant has 30 teeth. There are 2 teeth obscured by the pinion guide. I marked each 10th tooth.


Note the 2nd tooth on one end and 3rd tooth on other end has been bent to act as a stop to prevent over-winding.
You have a big job here. Have you considered using sliding window doors instead? Not original, but they will fit.

Now I've started dismantling my doors I can give you other measurements.

Hello Bill,

Thank you for that, a very helpful photo for me as I need to rotate my arm on the lever too so I can at least position it more correctly now! Were the 2nd and 3rd teeth bent as standard for this reason?



The above are two regulators from the 1100 doors, left is front regulator, right is rear. I think the left one is better based on teeth count alone.

I agree, it is a big job however as the saying goes, beggars can't be choosers. The doors are very uncommon here, as are parts and information. I actually have sliding windows fitted currently, but I really want the quarterlight look and now am determined to make it work!

The recess for the winder on the 1100 doors is only 7.5mm so will have to be creative there if I have to patchwork it!

*I ammended the photo of the white door above now that the brackets have been removed

Thank you again,

Louis

The front unit from 1100 looks closer. Some measurements here:
The total angle of the quadrant is 130 degrees



The angle of the lever to quadrant is 80 degrees. The 1100 quadrant appears to have a selection of rivet holes that might come close.

The overall linkage setup is like this - can measure individual lengths, etc.


The 2 bent teeth look like accidental damage, but were factory modifications.

Thank you for the information Bill, I had a little compare and it looked promising so I have disassembled them. The 80 and 130 angles look to be the same (for the most part). The rivet does not line up unfortunately but that is not a big deal in the scheme of things.




I need to realign the spring correctly when assembling, I should have noted down the quadrant position when it was most relaxed, but I have some photos to compare to at least.

I think the arms are the same when compared side by side, I think I'll split them at the first pivot and reweld the pivot back on. If you still have your regulator loose, please would you be able to tell me the distance of the first arm, from the pivot to the square fixing on the quadrant? Just to make sure it isn't an entirely wrong arm!



Thank you again for all your help, this should be one part of them almost done at least

The distance of the lever arm from centre of the pivot to the centre of the first (square) rivet is 3 1/16 inches (77.8mm). Sorry the starting point is off camera.

The offset is 1.0 inch from the end.

The stainless outer dress mould overlaps the window frame trim very slightly, front and rear edges.

The inner edge of the door mould (the bit you don't see on the car) has a small relieved section at both ends that allow the outer edge to overlap the frame trim more neatly. (Ignore the door pocket trim.)

I had a whole bunch of morris 1100 stainless trim that were in perfect condition, I cut down to fit outer door as someone had sanded and painted my originals

_________________
1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

Luckily these pieces I have from the doors; were your "donors" from a two door model? The 4 doors have a "bulge" in the leading edge unfortunately, but the rear sections could possibly be used still!

Thank you for the dimensions for the arms, they are the same so i will keep the 1100 arms as they are more complete, it all needs a good straightening too as it is very deformed, understandably given their history.

Thank you as well for these waist mould photos, very useful and gives me something to work to. The 1100 trims are the same design at the ends (with the notched back section on the rear) but I believe it is a longer notch, will have to offer it up and see if there may be sealing issues.

On the trim mould, yes the rear slightly longer on 1100 which I cut to length first using a dremel, also has a slight bend/round off which I put in. The front section with the bulge, I replicated by forming over a large bolt and rounding off the tip slightly. Can’t tell difference now it’s on the door.

Can give you the mini dimensions if required.

_________________
1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

Hi All,
Once again, I am so thankful for this information!
I have the Burstproof type doors (1976), and was once given some donor parts for other rusty burstproofs, so now I'll be able to rebuild my mechanisms to smooth them out.
The level of detail here is amazing, especially Louis's hands on and the users replies to those questions. ( Dimensions and all!)
Thanks again,
Mark

_________________
AKA "theminimark" or just plain "mark"
76 Leyland van with Rearside windows