So assumption being basis of all screwups...

Anyone with a minispares ultra light flywheel confirm that the markings are tdc, 5, 10, 15 ??

They look like they align with my old one, crank slot aligned, but no numbers marked.

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1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

Hi, yes, I checked mine with dial gauge on pistons yesterday spot on. I would also suggest thoroughly lapping flywheel onto the taper. cheers Lindsay Siebler

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1967 EX works rally mini restoration virtually complete OBL45F
1965 Mk1 Cooper S
1970 Colt 1100F SS
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

Thanks so much. I might engrave some numbers on so I know what I’m looking at on the light.

I had done a light lap and saw coverage on the flywheel but maybe less on the crank, so will give it another go. Have you had issues with the flywheel ?

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1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

Hi, I think the minispares taper is pretty accurate, as we have not been happy with some others. Initially lapping it onto a used crank I was not happy with crank marks, but after talking to one of the good technical people there, i lapped it a lot more and am satisfied now. The problem will be used cranks not perfect. I also ,now I know accurate TDC, make a mark on the front pulley, and screw an old locktab I have ground a point on onto a timing cover bolt. Much more accurate with a timing light then .On another note, dial back timing lights can certainly be inaccurate. Cheers Lindsay

_________________
1967 EX works rally mini restoration virtually complete OBL45F
1965 Mk1 Cooper S
1970 Colt 1100F SS
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project

Ok, great. Mine looks roughly the same now. I was worried about making some sort of ridge, but I guess they are both on a taper.

My second question is now about drive staps. On checking the tension on the straps, with the spacers supplied it looks like they sit up by about 1.8mm.

This just happens to be the size of washers I found under the straps.

So should I be skimming down the spacers supplied, or as an alternative would it be ok to put those washers on the horns ?

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1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

Hi, this is my take on all this, others may have different opinions
The drive straps are recommended to be parallel to flywheel surface, but I have set them not absolutely parallel .
Those posts on the backplate do vary in height, and this is a critical dimension in how the clutch grabs and releases.
Somewhere in this forum is a how to on bolting it all together and calculating the height necessary, in fact I think there is a recent post on clutch not releasing.
At this point I would fully assemble it with that washer in place as you have added it, tighten it all up on the bench, and check the diaghram is correct height, or machine as necessary.
Remember as the clutch plate wears, the post will in effect go towards the drive strap
Final assembly may or may not need the washer. and in that photo the diaghram is not fitted, so clutch plate is not compressed thinner... cheers Lindsay

_________________
1967 EX works rally mini restoration virtually complete OBL45F
1965 Mk1 Cooper S
1970 Colt 1100F SS
2014 Mitsubishi Imiev fully electric daily driver
1948 Allard M coupe Olds 215 v8 project
1971 Twin cam Escort ex Uk championship winning rally car project