As Ian said, dribble some fuel into the air filter intake, leave the filters off and crank. Make sure the butterflies are opening.
This will eliminate the whole carb setup in 1 shot.
An old mechanic I knew always used to say " engine needs only 2 things to fire, fuel and spark"
Narrow it down then divide and conquer.

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Cheers Dave.

Slightly off topic - Reminds me there is a show I’ve watched (i think on Prime) with two kiwi’s called Start Me Up. They go about doing exactly that, start up old cars that have been sitting about for years. Every time, it is - does it have spark and is it getting fuel. Pretty amazing what they have been able to get running. One episode they do look at an old Morris.

Usually goes something like this https://youtu.be/kN8u1N9_CC4

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1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

You had better send the Start Me Up boys to my place. I have got spark, I have got fuel getting to the jet. Do you think this p..... of a thing will even fire once.

I had a thought overnight to try the damper without oil. No difference. While I had the dashpot apart, checked the piston drop times. First one was 7 seconds, second was about 13 seconds and you could feel the difference in manufacturing tolerance. After working the second about 20 times, it gradually started coming down and finally got it to 7 seconds as well. Just needed a bit of wear to free it up.

I would have expected a new carburettor to be set up for you to just fit and start up. One fuel float was right at 3mm, but the second was only 1.5mm. When I screwed up the mixture screws, one was twelve flats too high and the other was 0.5mm low. Just to top off the morning, my needle conversion bushes arrived this morning. They are 1mm too long and will not sit flat will the bottom of the piston without a bit of remanufacturing.

Oh the joys of owning a Mini. Just as well they are fantastic to drive. I enjoy the tinkering, but this is testing my patience. As a last resort, I will try the CP4 needles after I adjust the bushes to fit. If I need to centre the jets, I will probably take them off the car. If the new carbs come off, then I will be tempted to put the Hitachi SU's back on. If they start first kick, then these new HS4's may end up in a glass cabinet looking all nice and shiny as a conversation piece.

Wish me luck and a bit more patience
Regards Fritzie

HI Fritzie
i HAD A GUY BRING A 1275 OVER FOR ME TO DYNO hooked it all up but it would not start it had fuel it had spark but would not fire,even with start u barsted.
After 2 hours i decided to put my weber on fired up instantly, he then mentioned that the SU's had been recondition,lots of head scratching checked the jets and there it was .100" thou jets with .090"thou needles.
Changed the jets and it fired up instantly on Number 6 needles.
The reason the floating needle is 1/4" longer is that the jet is a lot further down from the top of jet holder (HIF CARBS)
and when the piston is at full lift the needle will not come out the jet and get jamed.
If you wish to use the floating needle in a fixed one just cut 1/4" off the bottom of the floater and press the little top hat off
and away you go
GRaham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

Assuming the only thing you originally changed were the carbs then no fuel to cylinders would have to be the problem.
Just a couple of thoughts, if the plugs are dry then it is most likely lacking fuel, if they are wet with fuel then no spark.
The elec ign can fail to fire if volts drop below 10v needed for module to run.
Have you triple checked that you still have the correct firing order given the dizzys have been in and out.
I would start by verifying spark at coil wire then at each plug. And firing order with good strong blue spark.
Then I would put a teaspoon of fuel in each cylinder down the plug holes put plugs back etc then crank.
If you have fuel and correct sparks then check compression but I would doubt it unless you have fiddle with it.

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Cheers Dave.

I replied at same time as GR. I would follow his advise first.

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Cheers Dave.

Graham,
I think you may have found the problem. Just went out and put a CP4 needle in the top of the jet. There is much too much play for the jet to be 90thou. I will investigate further tomorrow. It is the only thing left that makes any sense.

Thanks and Kind Regards
Fritzie

Just an update to the continuing saga.
I have checked the jets and am confident there are 90thou.

I have been in contact with my supplier several times today. They are contacting SU tonight, to determine if they have answers to my problem. Quite honestly, I believe it has to do with tolerances and poor set up of the carbs during manufacturing/assembly. It is very poor for a so called quality product at a premium price.

I will let you know what transpires.

Regards and Thanks
Fritzie

Reading through the comments, I remember when I converted my HS4s to fixed needles and said you needed the bush and screw to hold the fixed needle in the piston.
I completely forgot that I also had to buy a new pair of fixed jet bearing kits WZX1341 (suits HS2 and HS4) to replace the swing needle setup.
GR's comments about the the swing jet sitting much lower than the fixed jets makes me wonder if the bush and screw conversion set is now made deliberately longer (you said 1mm too long) so that the fixed needle will fit down the jet hole to be sure the idle position still aligns with the top of the jet.
By making the conversion bush longer, it is saving you buying the jet bearing kit as well?

Bill,
Attached is a photo of the jet and the jet bush. The jet bush is flush with the top of the bridge. The jets fully wound up are 13 flats above the jet bush. Are you saying the jet bush for the floating needles should be approx. 1mm lower than the bridge?

From GR's comment I understood that the jet should be well below the level of the bridge in the carb throat on a swing needle setup. I am assuming that HIF and HS4 carbs with swing needles are similar and perhaps they aren't the same and HIF jets sit low and HS4 jets don't.

When setting up fixed needle carbs, I adjust the richness nut to position the top of the jet on each carb to be flush with the bridge of the throat, using the end of a steel ruler. In the case of your photo, the jet should be wound down about 13 flats until level with the bridge. That is your richness datum position - then count 12 flat down from here - not from where the jet is in your photo. That is the suggested starting position.

I guess the conversion kits you got were WZX2003M and you fitted them to the pistons to hold the fixed needles. I don't know why they are slightly too long. I didn't have any issues fitting mine.
The way that I read your comment and GR's about the jets on swing needles sitting well below the bridge don't seem to apply to your experience so I think my comments have only muddied the water for you. Sorry about that.

I do know that I also had to buy a pair of new jet bearing kits to suit fixed needles to replace the bearing setup for swing needles. Midel SU didn't have them and I bought WZX1341 from Mini Spares UK.

The SU instructions for HIF carbys have the jet sitting level with the bridge, and then wound down two turns..

13 flats is only 1/6 of a turn more than 2 full turns. Either should get you started

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The Needle Conversion kit that I received is WZX2003. When I queried SU Midel about the fit as they were too large in diameter and length. The response was and I quote:

Being a conversion piece, you may need to work with it a bit.

As there are different size pistons used throughout the range, the bush is
manufactured to the higher spec to be utilised with most of them.

Sorting out the diameter and length may be necessary for a nice fit.

I was not too concerned as I just used some emery paper to enable a snug fit into the recess. My thinking for the length was to grind off one end and make shore that end went inside the piston. To date I have not addressed the length.

Regarding the setup, as per what Bill said, I wound the jets down to be flush with the top of the bridge and then down twelve flats from that datum point.

I have since taken the new carbs off the car, as I need to recenter the jet on the LH carb, if I want to use to fixed needles. By luck, the jet on the RH carb was centered perfectly, but the LH carb was so tight with the fixed needle, that you could not lift the piston.

Something happened when I placed them on the bench.
At this point I had the fixed needle in the RH carb and the floating needle in the LH carb. You know when you place a carby on the bench and it does not want to sit up by itself and is leaning on its side. I noticed that under RH carb, fuel had ran out of the throat of the carb. Under the LH carb with the floating needle, no fuel in the throat and it was perfectly dry.
To me that was strange. So I put the floating needle back into the RH carb, filled the bowl with fuel, leant it on its side and no fuel came out of the jet.

To me, if fuel cannot come out of carbs with the floating needles on the bench, has this something to do the car not starting. Is fuel simply not getting past the needle and out of the jet?

There are other issues with these carbs, concerning tolerances and how the pistons drop. I am sure they are Made in China. I know they are not, but I tell you, they are absolute crap.

PS I put my old Hitachi SU's back on and it started straight away.
PPS The thing that really cheeses me off is that I opted to support an Australian company. That decision has cost me about $200 (so far). And all I have got is a pile of useless crap.

As my mate told me last night, he thinks a camel has crapped on me.

Regards Jon

it is good that you have the engine running again and it proves that all the timing etc is good and that the fault does indeed lie with the carbs.

https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf

This is the SU manual, this PDF is not complete but it has most of the information and may help you diagnose the HS4 setup.

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Cheers Dave.