I had to pull my A+ auto transmission out for a rebuild and now I have discovered the diff also needs a rebuild.



The pot joints had a bit of wobble (especially the RH side) so that is why I pulled the diff out. I found the RH side fibre thrust washer has disintegrated.
I am already getting the output bushes machined, now I think that I need to get the crown wheel and cage bushes done. From what I can find they should have about 0.8 to 1 thou clearance, using my quick measuring it seems like about 8 thou currently. Is this correct?

I have already got new planet gear thrust washers but not the planet gears or diff pin, I thought they weren't bad but the pin does have wear so this should be replaced. Which diff pin and planet gears are good?, is it DAM6624 and 22G2583? They all look to be made "cheaper" than the one currently in it.

Current pin:


I also bought new bearings but they appear to be some cheap rubbish which don't even have numbers on the bearings. I am going to buy better ones, are the RHP AHU1856 the best for this?

Since it is an auto it is even more of a problem if the diff components fail and send metal through the transmission so I should do this the best I can while it is out and I am rebuilding the transmission. The transmission is already requiring major work so fixing the diff is hopefully the final piece.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

There's been reports of some current aftermarket pins breaking lately here, due to poor heat treatment. I would try to get a Rover one similar to your original.

Example
https://minisport.com.au/mini-moke-diff ... over-brand

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I strongly advise against rebuilding a standard diff, it's just not worth it when a new cross pin diff is cheap, and you'll never have a problem with it..

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?