Wanting to know how I can remove the gear lever (remote change) on my '69 K.

I was looking to replace the aftermarket knob and gator.. but ran into trouble as the previous owner decided to glue (maybe epoxy) the after market knob. I've since stripped the grub screw heads and started to drill out the screws ... but I'm thinking it would be safer to remove it from the car and work on it on a bench.

... so is it just a matter of undoing the 2 large screws and retainer plate and lifting up?

I haven't done it myself but looks that way, I'd say take car with the spring and seat.

_________________
I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

Yep, just undo the 2 big screws

It’d be worth checking the nylon bush on the bottom of the shifter is still nice and tight. Also make sure the “primary shaft lever” in the picture above is nice and tight on the “primary shaft” and doesn’t slide about.

_________________

Sometimes the “split bush” grips the side of the bottom ball of the lever so may need a decent tug to get it free. Other version of the bush are just a cup and the lever will just lift up.

Have you checked that there’s not a locking nut (that needs to be undone) under the knob?

Cheers, Ian

Thanks for everyone's help.

There doesnt appear to be a locking nut. On the current knob, the only removeable bits are a dress trim that exposes the 3 grub screws. I'll guess I'll know more once its been persuaded off with an angle grinder

Wont get a chance this weekend (netball carnival) but I'll post once I give it a go

Finally got a chance to remove the lever from the car... once removed, I tried removing the gear lever knob with a drill (which failed)... then stepped upto a dremel with large cutting disk.. but wasnt able to remove it until an angle grinder came in. The heat from grinding made the epoxy melt, enabling it to be twisted off.

Judging by the short lever with no thread, I'm assuming the knob had been intentionally glued as a repair.

A new lever, knob and gaiter later, its all fixed.

Also replaced the remote housing mount which turned out to be split in 2... that would explain the over excited shaking at lights.

Those gearbox mounts usually break as a result of worn engine stabiliser bar bushes. Check yours.

_________________
The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Good point - I'll add to the list to things

The engine stabilisers appear to have been replaced when it was restored 12 years ago - they are red nolathane versions. The remote mount was marked MOWOG, so I'm assuming it was original

Nice work, I'm sure that'll make it nicer to shift and less vibration. Sounds like the gear know was put on very well.

_________________
I have an Addiction just not the time.......
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=80459
1968 Morris 1100 viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101555

They also shear off if the bracket is not pushed hard forward against the mount.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is the bracket supposed to have slots in it, or perhaps this changed over time ? Mine doesn’t have slots for the body side mounting and it has always been a pig of a thing to install and remove.

_________________
1966 Mini Deluxe - “Gabby” 34 years under restoration and counting...
1970 MGBGT
1959 MGA

Yep it was a bit of a challenge to install. my bracket was exactly like this one https://minisport.com.au/mini-remote-ge ... ng-bracket

Attached is another angle of the mount install for reference

The 3 body mount holes in the bracket are slotted.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Here’s the one I took off mine

_________________

Wow. Genuine Australian new old stock part at some stage given the JRA parts & accessories label.

_________________
ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43