Hi all,

I’m going to preempt this thread with an apology for my own ignorance and stupidity..

Today, I’ve purchased a 1965 850.

I inspected the car last week, and the fellow I bought it from had the car for about 3 years, sitting idle. When i turned up, we started it up, and pretty much fired first go (he’d bought a new battery). it idled nice, not noisey, and pretty smooth. I couldn’t take it for a run (lack of time), but he said he had taken it out for a short run that morning.

Today when I went to have another look, we couldn’t get it to start. Cranked over but wouldn’t fire. checked, plugs, leads, dizzy cap, and fuel, but no luck. I brought it home anyway, and have fiddled and tried to read up as much as I can all afternoon, (I have a Haynes manual, and the Leyland, Comprehensive Workshop Manual).

Then it just clicked with me, that this guy installed the battery in backwards (negative earth).

i’m wondering whether this has caused some type of electrical fault, which would now not let it start.

Again, sorry for my ignorance, (i know enough to get me into trouble, but not out of it… )

any suggestions or thoughts?

I just want to get it started, my 14 yr old (it’s his future first car) just wants to hear it run…

Two things to start a Mini, spark and fuel. Take a plug out, earth it and see if it sparks when you turn it over. Next take the fuel bowl lid off to see if you have fuel in there. Let's go from there

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Thanks for the quick reply. it definitely has spark (not sure how strong though), but will definitely check fuel tomorrow, he gave it a spray if “start ya bastard” and didn’t seem to do much.

Thanks, and i’ll let you know how tomorrow goes, apparently cranking a directly underneath the master bedroom at 11:30pm is not a good career move

It’s very simple to convert a generator car from positive to negative earth. It’s quite possible this was done already, as most aftermarket items are all negative earth too (stereo, electronic points, etc) and also for ease of jump starting

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Don't apologize for stupidity we are all guiltily of that. Good question , if we know your location there may be a member that could help. I certainly would .Allen

Thanks timmy201,

from what i can see, nothing has been done as it doesn’t have any equipment, and no new wiring etc.

i have a feeling the spark is very weak, and not enough not ignite, i’ll check a little more this afternoon and see what i can figure out. fingers crossed.

Notice you’re in Wollongong (I’m in Shellharbour), don’t suppose you can recommend a local mechanic with Mini experience?

Thanks Allen, I’m in Shellharbour (near Wollongong).. I don’t like to bug people, but going by the chatter on this forum, everyone is really helpful

I’d recommend Bill Bell at Bell Auto in Oak Flats. He’s good with minis and normally has a few hanging around

We have a local group “Minis in the Gong” if you want to join us for drives. I’m over in Albion Park at the moment and there’s a few of us around the area if you need help

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Brilliant, hopefully i can get it started this afternoon, otherwise I know where to go.

I have been watching the “minis in the gong” guys for a few years now, (even followed you guys a few years back on my bike). I’ll definitely join.

Thanks again, and hope to meet up one day!

Trust you get it sorted quickly, as others have said it’s either spark or fuel. But given you’ve tried the start spray with no luck, then spark is the likely culprit. Check the points, if it’s been sitting for ages, my guess is that will be the issue. If you’re a FB user, there’s a great Aussie 850 group too.

Thanks, my saga continues…

I ran an Ohm meter on the coil and it was running under spec, so i replaced it and no luck.

Now this is where it gets interesting.

when i crank it, i’m getting a stronger spark on each lead (with the new coil), BUT when i put the ohm meter/continuity meter from inside the cap to the end of the the leads i’m only getting a reading on 1 lead. Not even the lead from the coil to the dizzy is getting a reading! which doesn’t explain how i get spark on the plugs when i earth them out and crank it.. i’ll keep search for answers, but if anyone has any insight, please let me know…

oh, and i checked fuel bowl, other than dirty, there is plenty of fuel..

The continuity issues with MK1 leads are usually from the needle screws in the cap. Most likely a loose or dirty contact where they pierce the leads. The multi meter may show an open circuit but when a high voltage is put through them the spark will jump the gap. Clean up the screw tips and if you have enough length just cut 1/4 inch off the end of each lead and that will pierce a new spot.

great thanks for the tip, i’ll give it a go tomorrow.

thanks again

It could be it has suppression leads not copper originals. Cheap ones have a graphite string core, which go open circuit when old.I like Bosch or similar ones with an inductive core.
Bosch are about 1.8 K ohm new. I bin any lead over 5K ohm.

Just buy new leads including coil one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.