Ausmini
It is currently Fri Apr 26, 2024 8:11 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2023 6:15 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:59 pm
Posts: 968
Location: Holt ACT
carter wrote:
i did what you said Phil and still the same result. the light in the tester even goes dull


Do you have the ability to swap it out with a borrowed one. This would prove, or disprove, that it is the switch.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2023 9:43 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:59 pm
Posts: 1029
Location: Western Sydney
carter wrote:
i did what you said Phil and still the same result. the light in the tester even goes dull


DavidE, connect the power to the input terminal then connect the test lamp to the same input terminal. It should have full brightness.
Now move the test lamp probe to the other end of the input cable and see if you have full brightness. If you do, that piece of cable is OK. If you don’t have full brightness, then there is a fault in that piece of cable.
If it is OK, move the test probe to the next connection along the path until the test lamp goes dull. This will then tell you exactly where the problem is.
It is a simple step by step test along the path of the current till you find the fault.

Phil

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2023 8:05 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 9:54 am
Posts: 1242
Location: cowra nsw
hi phil the lamp has full brightness and the :H indicator works fine and the test lamp flicks nice and bright when on that side. when i turn to the RH indicator and put my test lamp on that side it is very very dull and does not flick like the other side.

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2023 8:32 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2013 8:59 pm
Posts: 1029
Location: Western Sydney
Sorry DavidE, my post should have been addressed to carter.

Carter, when you have a fault in a circuit, testing it at the start and end only confirms one thing, that there is a fault in the circuit.
What you have to do is find out where in the circuit the fault is.
You have to test at every point along the circuit.
For example, if there is a power failure in a street and the person at the last house has no power there is no point testing at their house.
If everyone in the street turns on their lights, you will soon see at which house the power failure is at.
What you need to do with your switch assembly is test all the way through every joint/connection from the input to the end to see where the fault is.

Phil

_________________
Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2023 9:37 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 9:54 am
Posts: 1242
Location: cowra nsw
Thanks Phil. Yes I have done that and it is only the RH indicator that the power fails at so everything else is fine. I have ordered a new indicator stalk and will await the arrival and i will update this to let you all know if it was the indicator. If it isn't I can keep the spare stalk for another project.

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2023 10:23 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39642
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
The current replacements are not properly checked. Asian QC or lack of.
The one we bought recently for a clubby has all the wiring to flash the headlights but the stalk won't move to do it. :-/

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2023 9:36 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc
User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 5:58 pm
Posts: 660
Location: North Brisbane
I recently purchased a new mk1 indicator stalk, it lasted 4 days before breaking. Broke the spring the bent the cancelling pin.

The supplier made mention that the cancelling screw in the steering column was set too high (which i had not adjusted as it worked without drama on my original)

Annoying as it was $160 that I finally decided i would spend and replace the unit as in the 20yrs i've had the car, its never had light on the end (plus the wiring was starting to get sketchy)

_________________
1964 MORRIS 850 - POST ZOMBIE APOCALYPSE CAFE RACER INSPIRED.

https://spotify.link/D0P4KtIP2yb

1098 +0.40
266 Kent Cam
GR Flat top pistons
HS6
1.3:1 Roller tip rockers
Stupid high CR


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2023 3:15 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 9:54 am
Posts: 1242
Location: cowra nsw
Bought a new stalk and exactly the same issue (lucky I have an 850 van that it can go into) put a direct power to that quote and it then turns that to a very dull light also....driving me mad!!!

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2023 7:09 pm 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:59 pm
Posts: 968
Location: Holt ACT
carter wrote:
Bought a new stalk and exactly the same issue (lucky I have an 850 van that it can go into) put a direct power to that quote and it then turns that to a very dull light also....driving me mad!!!


The other component that could be giving you grief is the flasher can. Is yours known to be good? You should have 12v coming in, and with the stalk in either position you should have 12v on each of the other 2 pins.
The last can I installed is a Narva 68312BL (Edit 68213BL) 3 pin electronic one. It works just fine and has been reliable. This can be had off eBay now (Sparesbox) for $13.69 incl postage.


Last edited by DavidE on Mon May 08, 2023 5:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2023 9:05 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Sep 30, 2015 9:38 am
Posts: 1502
Location: Brandy Hill, NSW
DavidE wrote:
The other component that could be giving you grief is the flasher can. Is yours known to be good? You should have 12v coming in, and with the stalk in either position you should have 12v on each of the other 2 pins.
The last can I installed is a Narva 68312BL 3 pin electronic one. It works just fine and has been reliable. This can be had off eBay now (Sparesbox) for $13.69 incl postage.
Can't find the Narva part on the web


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2023 10:20 pm 
Offline
religious status
religious status
User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
Posts: 39642
Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
I use this one
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/154157838074

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2023 5:47 am 
Offline
998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 10:59 pm
Posts: 968
Location: Holt ACT
cooperess wrote:
DavidE wrote:
The other component that could be giving you grief is the flasher can. Is yours known to be good? You should have 12v coming in, and with the stalk in either position you should have 12v on each of the other 2 pins.
The last can I installed is a Narva 68312BL 3 pin electronic one. It works just fine and has been reliable. This can be had off eBay now (Sparesbox) for $13.69 incl postage.
Can't find the Narva part on the web

Oops. 68213BL


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 7:16 pm 
Offline
1098cc
1098cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 19, 2006 9:54 am
Posts: 1242
Location: cowra nsw
So i fixed the problem... I know that a lot of people will just shake their head with their eyes closed or look at the ground and shake their head or just think I need a good slap in the head. What happened was I just took the flasher unit from my clubman which was working perfectly fine it was actually a 2 pronged flasher not a 3. bought a 3 and boom fixed.......But i cant get the light on the end of the indicator to work..... how does this work? putting an active to the light wire does nothing put an earth to that wire does nothing and it does not go active when the indicators are on..... ideas on that one?

_________________
1964 smooth roof panel van
1967 Mk 1 X-Police cooper s
1970 mini k
1975 leyland


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 8:28 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2016 10:07 pm
Posts: 327
There are two things to know about the pilot light which are important. Firstly, the energising coil which operates this lamp is arranged so that it will only activate the light if the load through the front and back indicator lamps totals about 35 to 40W. If you are using low wattage globes, or one is not working, the pilot light will not illuminate. This is a safety feature to tell you one or more lamps have blown. The second thing is that, unless the flasher can is mounted as a pendant (vertically up or down), then the terminals B and L should be in the same vertical plane.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2023 8:29 pm 
Offline
848cc
848cc
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2019 5:11 pm
Posts: 415
Location: Brisbane Northside
carter wrote:
So i fixed the problem... I know that a lot of people will just shake their head with their eyes closed or look at the ground and shake their head or just think I need a good slap in the head. What happened was I just took the flasher unit from my clubman which was working perfectly fine it was actually a 2 pronged flasher not a 3. bought a 3 and boom fixed.......But i cant get the light on the end of the indicator to work..... how does this work? putting an active to the light wire does nothing put an earth to that wire does nothing and it does not go active when the indicators are on..... ideas on that one?

The light should be connected to the extra pin on the flasher. You will need to follow the wire, testing if it is has power or not at every accessible point. Some of these points can be eliminated with how you connected power for testing. The test points should be:
- Flasher pin
- bullet connector going to switch
- solder terminal on switch where the wire joins to go thru the switch
- light socket terminal

If that all tests good then check that there is an earth at the light socket, it goes thru the switches tube/lever. Test that the tube is earthed.

If that is all good then test the bulb, I would say do this first but it is probably easier to do the other tests than find a way to hold and connect the bulb outside of the switch.

With the quality of new parts it could be any of the above or even the flasher. Once you determine where power isn't available then you can work out exactly what is the fault is, such as is it the wire or is it the bulb socket terminal.

_________________
1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 37 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 74 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  

© 2016 Ausmini. All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.