1071 S Ian, when your drowning and have no electrical prowess, you clutch at straws, know what I mean?

Cooperess
We were all trying to throw you lifebouys, but I think that many of them were out of your reach.
The trouble is that now we want to know what the problem was, and the solution.
Invest your $179 in an auto electrician and let us know.
Dave2

It is NOT a test light but I do agree it is unnecessary and overpriced as I have already posted. It is designed to be able to quickly supply + or - to something to test it. Not something that is useful in this situation.

A power probe doesn't replace a test light and a test light doesn't replace a power probe.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

Interesting ..can you explain how or why I would want a "power probe"?

Thanks, Ian

Maybe I am a budding LUCAS electrics man.

It is basically a switch which connects + or - to the probe depending on the switch position.

Lets say you were testing why a headlight is not working. You could use it to provide + to its + terminal then try negative. Then you would do similar at the relay to see if the wiring is good and then try to trigger the relay using the power probe.

It's the same as using piece of wire to temporarily test something. The power probe does have leds to show if what you are touching is - or + so that you don't create a short.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

Much appreciated... I wondered what it does that my bit of wire with a couple of alligator clips didn't...

Cheers,

PS Cooperess..... you do know that's why Poms drink warm beer ??

Various Body Earthing Points and bulbs I am using

I'd be inclined to pull those terminals off and then put them back on (one at a time) and then waggle them to make sure they are all tight on the male terminal. If not gently crush the female to increase the bite. Don't laugh. I had major problems on another vehicle caused by a blade fuse due to the legs being undersized in thickness. A replacement sent to problem packing.

It doesn't look like your voltage stabiliser is connected correctly.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

It was until "Wiring Getting Hot" Doesn't that only make instruments work. If I have no temp or fuel gauge and wires don't get hot, then I've solved it.

I have long lost track of what has been done. I noticed it and wanted to make sure you were aware. If you weren't aware then if the wires were connected to the wrong places there could be issues.

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1986 Mayfair (998 auto), 1974 S, 1974 Van, 1972 PMG Van

Too many minis

Might be worth double checking this lead and connection. The big rusty washer may contribute to the issue.



Is the earth lead from the battery serviceable? Adding a jumper lead from the negative post to a good alternative earthing point in the boot would help eliminate that part of the electrical system as the fault.

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ex-NSW Police 1970 MK II Cooper S
VMCI #43

This is the way mine was wired before dis-assembley

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

You really can't get it wrong as one pair of terminals are female (Inst), and one set male (Batt).