Hey guys...

I've got a little mini deluxe, as some observant ones know, and I'm finding that the little thing is as slow as "just another Radiohead fan"**.

At the moment it's got a 1 3/4" SU carb attached to the 1330cc A+... The head has been street/comp ported and has with a Mild Wade cam. It appears to have pretty high compression as well.

Anyway... what would be the next step in the pursuit of those extra kilowatt? I'm thinking Weber but would that be heaps better than the SU? I don't mind too much about economy because I'm not driving the thing daily.

I'm not made of money so whatever I do would need to have a really noticable effect for me to spend heaps.

It's booked in to get its first service and general checkup (first since I've owned it) for Friday. If the mechanic says that the engine needs bits taken off it or the carby to be rebuilt etc I need to know what my future plans are so I can say yes or no to the work.





** sorry for the tasteless joke.

Turbo injected twin cam 16valve

sorry, can`t help myself

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Maybe a milder cam with that weber 45?

edit/ lol i said milder, i meant WILDER!

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Hmmm... i was told by a mate that i should stick with the current cam and just do the carby. Would a Weber 45 be the right size... Surely a 40 would be the one to aim for?

Oh, and I forgot to ask... which cars came with the cabies poking through the dash? Was that CooperS's or just racing minis? Presumably that would not be advisable for a road car due to noise and fuel smell/fumes?

go the 45.... 40 might be a little small

I agree with GT1310 that a 40 Weber is a bit small for a 1275, unless it's otherwise stock. A 45 is the go, but after an SU they are bloody noisy...

The secret to getting power out of a 1275 is the head and cam. I don't know how mild your Wade cam is, but most everybody here lately (me included) seem to be running a Graham Russell RE-13 cam. Power band in my 1360 (with 1.5 rockers) is 2700-7500+.
As roadburner cams go I reckon it's the best, and I've had about a dozen cams in over the years.
Exhaust- If you don't have an LCB on it I'd get one, preferably a Maniflow medium bore. Works for me....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok, what's LCB? I see LCB all over the place on this forum but am yet to work out what exactly it is? Is it a brand or type? I know it's something to do with extractors.

I've already got extractors fitted but god knows what exactly they are.

And, DrMini... I haven't taken it past 6000rpm so far and it seems to be screeming up that high. How can you achieve 7500rpm? The little redline needle on the tacho is quite easy to move so I can't trust that it is where is should be anyway. (currently at 6k rpm)

I think I need to take the head off and find out exactly what is in there. The previous owner didn't do the mods and knows dick all about anything. The guy who did the work I am now finding is simply a dick himself. I'll try and speak to the head guys (Headstud Development - H.S.D) and hopefully they kept records.

LCB = Long Centre Branch. Centre pipe goes down the back of engine next to to the 1-4 joined pipe, and they join under the car.

I can get to 7500 easily as this motor now breathes really well and is built to take it. But beware going that far on a 1275 motor unless that's the case.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Long centre branch (LCB) header - the LCB refers to the design of the manifold.

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One should never skimp on the zip ties.

LCB (Long Centre Branch) they are a type of extractors where the centre branch meets lower than the other two in a 3-2-1 pattern.

EDIT: Blimey 3 simultaneous postings

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

I would say give the head to graham russel and get him to port and flow the head for the best alround perfomance, cos if the head aint right it doesnt matter what you do to the carb side it just wont cut it.
LCB first
head next then carb and induction system as long as everything else is good inside it will give plenty power.

As I said, I'm not made of money... so i'm not going to go and take the head to get work done that it already has had done to it. Also, I'll take a look at the extractors that are on it at the moment to see if I can identify them.

Also, I'm based in Melbourne... This Graham Russel guy is worth sending my head interstate for?

Who did the head originally and what was done, not what they said was done but did they show you how the head had changed, did they supply you with the cc of the chambers? Has said mate got the qualifications to advise on what is best for your motor? if he has he should know why it is so slow. That brings up another question, how slow is slow? A lot of questions need to be answered before you start throwing money at it. Maybe there is an obvious reason that has been missed. Was it slow when you put it together or has it become slow or have you gotten used to it?

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

He's good enought that minicranks sends heads and cams over from NZ for...
Hey don't mind me, I'm biased....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.