The last job to do before I can road test the car is a wheel alignment.

What's the best way to do this in the garage so I get it reasonably close, to take it down the
suspension place to get it checked properly. I replaced the tie rods with extended ones and whilst I'm pretty sure I put it back the way the original ones were, one wheel has excessive toe in, but is at the inner end of the thread.

I obviously have to adjust the other side now too, but would like an opinion on how other people get it right.
thanks
Kevin.

UK cars have a pin in the floor to centre the rack, but ours don't.
Centre the rack by turning fully left then right, count the turns and set it in the middle, tie it there somehow.
Adjust the tierod ends so it has about 1/16" or a little more toe OUT when measuring at the treads. (usual 1/16" dimension is on the sidewalls so allow a bit more whan measuring at tread).
Then stand behind the car and sight the sidewalls of the front tyres. If not equal adjust the tierods again.
This will get it close enough to drive.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev, get a flat peice of timber or a broom handle, put it across flat across the tyre with one end touching the ground & mark the floor with chalk, do this both ways on both sides, then measure between the chalk marks side to side, this will give you some idea how far its toed in or out, it wil allow you to fairly acuratley adjust the steering to get it to where you need to get it.

Doogie

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I won Hay once, here's the pic to prove it..


Hay, it's not about the car, it's not about the venue, it's about the people that come here. Peter Dwyer, Mayor of Hay NSW.

Another way I've used is put two 4x3 straight timbers on housebricks, push lightly against sides of tyres and measure with a tape.
When they do alignment, do make sure they give it TOE OUT. I've been caught before by experts at tyre shops.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

once you get it close, Take it to john leffler, st georges steering. He will sort it out for you.

Cheers

Aaron

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Thanks Guys, I have it booked in there for Saturday.
Got it reasonably Ok over the last few nights, but might see if I can get it closer before Saturday, so there is no issues driving it there.

On a related issue - what method do people recommend to bed in brand new brake pads?
Mine are std compound, but do different compounds require any differences in bedding in?
KB

Not as far as i know, harder compounds will take longer softer compounds not so long. Best i can do

Cheers

Aaron

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Just take it easy for the first couple of hunded KMs, with most pads.
Any special instructions (sometimes are, with asbestos-free or metal ones) will be writ on leaflet in ze box...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

my mechanic mate recommends a staged process where he drives at 60, brakes hard to about 20, then lets them cool, does the same from 80, then 100 a few times, don't let them lock up.... I had the pads changed on our old subaru once, and then drove to the NSW south coast, when we were going down the steep hills with lots of hard braking they must've gotten really really hot, and squealed from then on until we traded it in...

I did JAM by eye, then took it to a local place recently....it was MILES out

Eyeometer a bit out?