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Buffing compound / polish
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1138		 Page 1 of 3
Author:  J_A_M [ Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Buffing compound / polish
Today i hand buffed a small section of J_A_M and I was blown away at the shine! 8) I used a 10 year old tin of buffing compound that was collecting dust on my shelf, but I don't want to use it on the whole car.

What I am looking for is recommendations on buffing compounds and polishes. Does anyone have experience with any particular brands?

I think I will be hand buffing J_A_M, as the result I got was excellent, and I don't trust myself with a machine buffer (too easy to slip and burn the duco)

Cheers

Anton.
Author:  Anto [ Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Considering you just painted it I'd talk to a specialist. The best polish to use varies depending on the type of paint (ie two pack urethane would use a rougher polish than enamel than acrylic, etc). I use Meguiars Gold Class (they also do some good Canauba wax), but my paint is a few years old. With new paint I'd want to get it right the first time. You're right about machine buffers - if you have little experience with one a resprayed car is not one to start on. If you have the rpm too high or move too slow you may burn it.

Anto.
Author:  J_A_M [ Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
I am glad you think the same about hand buffing. Thought I would get flamed about that.

I don't really trust specialists.....

I had an auto trans 'specialist' deliver a replacement trans for my lancer to my house today.....wrong bloomin one wasn't it!! :evil:

Anyway, Meguiars seems to get a mention everywhere. i will check them out.
Author:  Anto [ Mon Jul 12, 2004 9:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Meguiars Gold Class polish is good but does have a degree of cut to it. I also use Meguiars carnauba wax, and naturally it doesn't. I've also seen another Meguiars carnauba claiming to be clear coat safe (in big letters on the container). Hmmm, I was somewhat under the impression that the stuff I am using is clear coat safe, considering my car is acrylic with clear coat...

I have nothing against machine buffing - I am a car detailer after all (though I'm not the buffer dude, but anyway). Just think that experience is the key. Speaking of which, we had a guy come in with a free sample of polish. My boss thought it was great, but it cost $60 a litre. I think I have his contact details if you want.

Anto.
Author:  J_A_M [ Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anto wrote:
...... but it cost $60 a litre. I think I have his contact details if you want.

Anto.


er....that's waaaay out of my budget. I know you need to spend money to get good results, but I am sure there is a cheaper alternative. Thanks anyway Anto.

The bright side of doing a hand buffing job is that I will work out the shoulder, neck, and arm muscles pretty damn well!
Author:  Lillee [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 8:58 am ]
Post subject: 
A good shine doesn't come cheap unfortunately...

I use Mother's California Gold 3 stage system, Oxidisation Remover, Glaze and Carnuba Wax, works really good on fair to new paint jobs, costs around $70 for all 3.

Be very careful though, buy new buffing pads and don't use old towels/cloth or you will scratch the paint to no end... I think waxing and shining is an investment to keep your paint new and shiny longer...

New Paint Job back to bare metal 2 pack = $5???-$8???
Protect paint with wax and sealants = $70
Gloating aabout your shine to mates = Priceless

Bargain 8)
Author:  J_A_M [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:40 am ]
Post subject: 
I posted this same question on a UK board, and the word there was this stuff:

http://www.farecla.com/

There are OZ suppliers of this brand, and the recommended products (3 in total) would set me back about $70 - $80.....

.....so if this is the going rate for a quality buff / shine, then so be it, I will spend the money.

Everyone judges a paint job by the shine 8)
Author:  Lillee [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:52 am ]
Post subject: 
For sure! you will not be dissapointed... Mother is pretty good, and very easy to use (for novices like you and me).

Go invest in 3 new separate buffing pads ($2-$3) and use clean towels or cotton T shirts to buff it off. Use old toothbrush to get at hard to reach places like badges etc where wax can gather.

Good luck!
Author:  J_A_M [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 10:13 am ]
Post subject: 
68Delux wrote:
Use old toothbrush to get at hard to reach places like badges etc where wax can gather.


GREAT TIP - thanks.
Author:  Lillee [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 11:52 am ]
Post subject: 
No Probs JAM, let me know if you need any other polishing advice 8)
Author:  Anto [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Just make sure the toothbrush is very soft or sure as eggs is eggs you will end up with scratches in the long run.... then again you will anyway, no matter how hard you try.

Anto.
Author:  J_A_M [ Tue Jul 13, 2004 9:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anto, exactly why I logged in tonight.....how do you get rid of swirl / scratch marks?? I bought a few different products.

Cutting compound and Meguiars Wax, but I think I am missing the middle step that gets the swirl marks out.

Any ideas?
Author:  Lillee [ Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Mother's stage 2 compound is a Wax Glaze which "hides" swirls by filling them in. To get rid of the swirl marks permanently requires abrasive conpounds which means actual removal of paint! :shock:

It is far better to fill and hide the swirls IMO and the mothers stuff works really well...

The best permananent way of removing swirls is to machine buff it (I recommend paying someone to do that!)

Try a glaze wax, I wasn't dissapointed!
Author:  J_A_M [ Wed Jul 14, 2004 9:40 am ]
Post subject: 
hmmmm...... I have been reading and I think the swirl marks are from the 1000 grade paper I used to lightly cut (read: scratch) the paint. The article I read recommends cutting with 1000, 1400, then 2000..... :shock:

SOME GOOD PAINT BUFFING TIPS - HERE

It also says that a swirl remover only fills the scratches, then they come back in a month or so.... :cry:

I am going to try using some finer paper, then buffing / polishing. If that does not work I will take your tip of the Mothers Stg 2.

Cheers.
Author:  Lillee [ Wed Jul 14, 2004 12:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
J_A_M wrote:
hmmmm...... I have been reading and I think the swirl marks are from the 1000 grade paper I used to lightly cut (read: scratch) the paint. The article I read recommends cutting with 1000, 1400, then 2000..... :shock:

I am going to try using some finer paper, then buffing / polishing.

Cheers.


Hold on a sec, you are using sandpaper after your car has already been painted!?!?!?

That is a BIG nono!! the only abrasive that you should be using on relatively good paint is cutting compounds like Mothers Stage 1. It is 100 times weaker than 2000 grit paper

If you are using paper then STOP! if it has already got 2 pack enamel on it then all it needs is a cutting compound to lightly buff it up at the most... Is the car in your avatar yours? if it is it looks like you've already 2packed the car nicely... it should already shine relatively nicely. To give it a showroom shine all it needs is wax... the only time you need to use paper is when it is heavily oxidized or when you are touchup painting small areas etc. Or when you are preparing the car for final gloss and are sanding down the primer coat.

My favourite car detailing website:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-perfect.html

Gee i hope everything turns out ok...
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