Dennis has an MG1100 with hubs that have movement in them even when tightened up correctly. The discussion about surface grinding the spacer between the two tapered roller bearings is probably also applicable in this case.

What is concerning Dennis (and me) is that a definate "step" has been worn on the inner face of the hub.....so If we attempt to do the surface grind/preload fix for this particular hub....it just might make the step wear deeper and eventually cause a failure..(looking on the bright side as always )

My pathetic arrows point to where the problem is:





Very interested in peoples opinions on whether the Hub/Driveshaft is worn out!

Can the hub be reclaimed by an alternative approach like machining out the step and building up/pressing in/fitting a washer to bring the bearing face out to where it should be.

Same same for the driveshaft step.....

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"Show me the Mini!"

Is that because the bearings weren't preloaded when installed?

Would maybe need to take a lathe to the CV to get rid of the step, and then use shims to set up the preload on the bearing.

Or replace the CV with one that doesn't have a step, and shim it up anyway.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

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"Show me the Mini!"

The swivel hub is the same as the Morris 1100.
The CV joint is the same as Morris 1100 and Cooper S.


(edit, just noticed that this is my post number 998, that must be a good sign )

i might have some old cv's and uprights here 9y i'll have to see and make sure i have not tossed them
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

The shoulder may or may not be case hardened, if it is it is only because of the proximity to the CV itself. Case hardening is not important for a bearing shoulder as there is no direct wear usually from rubbing. Electric motor armatures are a good example. It's a pretty high spec steel from the start.

Obviously though, from then on shims will be needed to make up for the scrape that has been removed.

If you shim it as-is, you run the risk of the shims deforming into of the groove, and running into the bearing cage. You're back at square one.

Depends on what is closer to hand, a lathe and shims, or a replacement CV.

How was the step formed in the hub? Could a worn out drive flange have been the cause of all this from the start?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

or you could be alittle dodge and fit shims wide enough to fit in the groove until the gap has been taken up, it would work, but old fitters might raise their eyebrows.....

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hah..they are always raising their eyebrows mate

There are plenty of talented people here who can do the type of work we are discussing....trouble is....what is the correct thing to do

The hub and driveshaft shown are spares which would probably be used as test pieces for the repair.

Would be nice if we could save the original items

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"Show me the Mini!"

Lathe work and steel shimming would do, but everyone seems to replace these days.

Maybe look at replacing your drive flange as well.

3rd option is to pad weld the journal and then machine it back, but this might affect the heat treatment of the CV. It would be a permanent repair though if you weren't going to replace it.

I thought you were an old hand at this stuff?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

PLEASE, DON"T WELD IT...
These things are cast iron of some sort. I know this because I attempted welding one for fun, once...
There should be a square machined web in between the bearings with no wear or steps or bruises in it. If worn, uneven or not, I'd look for another swivel hub.

Having said that, I did once reclaim a (slightly) worn Cooper 997 hub by setting it up in the lathe, machining it parallel on the worn side of the web, then fitting a machined brass washer in to restore the width..
Hardly worth doing, it took bloody hours to get the hub running true in the lathe to begin with.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Certainly I would not weld the iron flange or hub, too much riding on it's reliability, The CV might be worth a go though if you were desperate, it is steel?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yes I'm an old hand...but thats where it ends I've seen a lot of metal bashing and engineering over the years but this is different...the correct relationship must be re-established for the bearings to be happy.

Hmmmm anyone ever heated a swivel hub and sweated something like brass into it

and as for...but everyone seems to replace these days....thankfully, no..very thankfully, I still know some "old hands" who are not phased by sand casting, welding, remetalling or any engineering techniques you care to mention

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"Show me the Mini!"

MICK (9YaTaH), you can't heat treat cast iron, really. Let it go... find another hub. It's toasted, IMO..
RIP....

Mick (Mick), an S drive flange is steel, (EN8) a M1100 would be similar.
The CV is bearing steel or similar, heat treated. I wouldn't weld it......

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc!! am I Mick or am I 9YaTaH...the voices, the voices

Ummm..... no one is going to do anything that ain't engineeringly sound....heat treat?? Noooo...just talking about heating the swivel hub so that a brass insert could be pressed in......just trying to work out if there is a way to save parts that have served for 30 years or more and probably have had the richard

The pics I took don't reallt describe the problem too well...more pics soon.

Dennis took the mighty MG1100 to a Motorkhana today, clunky hubs and all and wrote:

Tim and Nick went really well today. Certainly my car had a better (read less destructive) day as Tim and Nick get smoother. I suspect they will end up with a better result than some of the hoons with far more powerful cars, who lost a lot of time sliding all over the place.

Here is a Dad that encourages his young sons to have a go at Motorsport and to hell with worrying about his car (a rather unusual MG1100...settle now, settle Morris 1100 ) .

Me?? My son went to go-karts today and I wern't even there.....I did get to sit in a V8 Stag and go vrooom vrooom though

So....If I can do anything to help this mate...I will

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"Show me the Mini!"

Mick, (too many Micks in here, lol..)
That web in the middle is just a spacer, you can machine it square and put a machined spacer washer next to it as said. No need to press fit, there is no relative movement there when assembled.
If the bearing is no longer a press fit in the hub, just put a little Loctite 609 bearing mount on it. Great stuff...

There must be lots of M1100 swivel hubs being used as doorstops around the place- they made oodles of them back in the 60s...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.