Hi guys, I'm finally going to replace my clubby's worn out uni's.
Are there any secrets I need to know or any special tools required?
Has anyone posted any threads on how to remove and install them?

Thanks.

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I'm going to be doing the same job soon, and according to Haynes, you undo the top swivel joint to allow the drive shafts to move outwards slightly. Then undo the U shackles and lever them out.

Reassembly in the reverse of the above, but with less swearing as the screwdriver slips and goes though your palm. Check the torque carefully. I was told that there should be 4 threads exactly visible, but that contradicts Haynes specifiying to do them up to the correct torque. Either way, Locktite would be a fabulous idea as the consequences of them coming loose are pretty unpleasant for the cases (or so I've been told).

When you get the U-bolts off, you will note they are not parallel any more. Makes them much easier to refit if you gently squeeze them in a vice so they are.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I reckon I would swear like a sailor if I had to undo those nuts with loctite (presuming his Unis are rubber crosses or similar). Brand new Nyloc nuts from the supercrap bolt stands have never failed me on the mini unis, and they look all pretty and new.

I saw Nylocs used on big ends once on a 1275, I didn't like it but they held up for the 10 000 K's I saw the motor run before he sold the engine, I still wouldn't do it though...

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick,
re the Nyloc nuts on big ends (S etc) they do work OK. Better than nothing I guess, which is what you get with big $$ ARP ones. They don't come undone, either.. how strange..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The idea of relying on the teflon plastic to not melt was what worried me, I realise that they used them as well on piston gudgeon plugs, but it still concerned me in that it would be hard to control the type of plastic used on 40 cent nylocs, but yes it worked well.

I used to get those uniloc nuts from the bolt shops, the ones you only tighten once, but even then I used to worry that I hadn't applied them correctly.
I'm a worry wort when it comes to spinny things and expensive EN40B cranshafts

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yeah.. I don't use standard S rod bolts any more after I saw the 1275 donk Chong bought with an S rod out the side...
I use ARP S bolts/nuts, or their B/B Ford ones (much cheaper and almost identical). These are not Nylocs....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the tips, especially the screwdriver through the palm.
Once this is done I guess I'll know if there's any internal gearbox noise.
I'll let you know how the replacement goes or any injuries I've inflicted.

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jack car up and put it on stands. Then use your jack to raise the hub you are working on, so that the drive shaft is parallell to the ground. Make sure you are not lifting the car with the hub, you just want to make the driveshaft level. this makes is SOOO much easier to get the u-bolts out and then back in again.

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