Ok so just got a new alternator.
One of the ones with the (internal regulator?) changing from a external type(original cooper s Mk2.
So i have two large connectors and a small connection.
I seem to only have one wire for for connection to lge connector that goes to small connection on top of flywheel where it meets with other wires and lead to battery.
and one small wire going to regulator box i think its D? its for the ignition light on dash.

So im competely confused are you???
someone please tell me how many wire are to go to my alternator and where they should go.
unit.
p.s, i looked at the lrge connections on the alternator and they seem to meet up inside so do i only need one.
and i would have thought there should be a lead straight back to the battery from the alternator??

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Cooper S Mk 2

Ok the 3 connections are as following:
1 large terminal (either fork type or a big stud type) - this is the alternator output and goes to the solenoid.
2 small fork type connections - one of these is the feed to your alt. dash light (ignition light) and the other is a +12v feed to your alternator from the #2 position in your fuse box (the one that's on upon ignition).

DO NOT CONNECT A +12V to the alt. light output or you might fry the internal control unit.

So unless there's an even larger stud and nut type connector on the alternator, then one of the large connections is the output and should go to the starter solenoid (you already should have a wire there), the other then is the +12v input and the smaller one is the feed to the bulb. Depending on the control unit you've got you should be able to leave it plugged in and unoperational and everything should still work (while preserving the original cooper S look).

I have this very same setup- was a MK2 15AC alternator now a 16ACR.
There are 2 small wires that went to the original alternator-
Connect ONLY the brown/yellow wire to the small lug, that is the indicator light.
The other small wire that went to the old alternator, just tape up & leave off.12V feed to field circuit is internal now.
You can unplug remove the old voltage regulator completely as I did, or leave it there- it's not in circuit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

thanks Mike and drmini for your help.
What i had set up was a lrg connector from alt to solonoid(on top of flywheel).
and the green and black wire connected to small connector on alternator.
I tested it with multimeter and pulling only 12 at battery and same at solonoid.
So if i conect up the yellow and brown wire instead of green i should get a higher
reading of say 15??
From the OLD service manual i had the wiring diagram looked like it should be the green
one but if you say its the yellow ill try that.
So drmini whats the story with the other free large connetion on the alternator??
why is it there?
thanks again.
unit

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Cooper S Mk 2

These later alternators had 2 big brown wires going to the solenoid, earlier ones had 1.

The indicator lamp on all these Lucas alternators is a part of the field circuit-if you leave it off the alternator will not charge properly.

the other little wire was the regulated supply to the brushes (field) which is not needed now- as said it is internal from regulator, on the new one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ok cool thanks drmini and mike i have it sorted.
Did the yellow wire and its sweet charging the battery and reading 14 volt.
So do you think i need to out an additional wire from the alternator to the solanoid.
as there is the spare connection to do so.
unit.
p.s. took it for a run around castle hill went awesome
but i started to sand back some suspect rust not happy

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Cooper S Mk 2

I don't believe you need two wires, my 1970 `matic gets by with the 1 original and it doesn't get warm. Maybe if you are gonna cover the front in driving lights, 2 would be needed then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you have tried everyone else's idea you might aswell try this. Connect the battery back to front and if smoke pours out of the wiring take it to a professional so it can be fixed properly. There are more than one sort of wiring system on Mini alternators. So make sure what you are being told to do corresponds with your type of system because that is what will happen... you will let the smoke out of the wiring and then nothing will work.

Mate despite my learned friend's advice, please do not connect the battery in reverse - its an idiotic suggestion, however sarcastic the tone might have been.
Yea its true most jobs on a mini can be done by a proffesional, just as most jobs on say a 2005 model Mazda 6 must be done by a proffesional - "take it to a pro" is a useful advice as it is universal, makes one sound very knowledgeable and authoritative and really is never wrong, just redundant. But I think that for many mini owners being able to do things themselves, rather than taking them to a pro is one of the main reasons for owning a mini in the first place, rather than the said Mazda for eg.

If youre one of those people, dont connect your battery in reverse, rather keep asking for advice from people who might have done it before and learn from the mistakes of others.

Yes you are right, your mistake might also become one for others to learn from too. The reason why I told you to take it to a professional was because what you needed to do was very simple but when every Tom Dick and Harry tell you their way of repairing the problem they had with their Alternator might become confusing and that is when one makes mistakes. An Honest Auto Electrician should connect your new Alternator for you for less than the charge of half an hour's work and at least you will have some sort of warranty. If you don't want my advise you don't have to take it. It is your problem after all. Cheers.

Unit,
There were only 2 different alternator wiring arrangements used here on Oz Minis- the 15AC with the external regulator (which yours had), and the later ones (15ACR, 16ACR etc) which all had the internal regulator.

Apparently, Mike and I have successfully helped you migrate from the former to the latter, so don't sweat it.

For the record, NO Oz Made Minis ever had an alternator with + earth. That was a British aberration that did not last long.


Cheers, and happy charging.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.