Is it possible to change the cam while engine is in the car

its an 1100 from a leyland 72

cheers

yes... you only need to remove rad and cut a couple of the vertical bars in the arch.. (forgotten the name)


oh.. and only with engines with the tappet covers...

doc knows.... this is just my lame attempt at showing intelligence...

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yep 1100 and 1275 Cooper S's as the have the tape covers on the rear so you don't drop the Cam followers to the box. Otherwise it's engine out time

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I seem to recall David Vizard devised a procedure for changing the cam on 1275s without removable tappet covers while the engine was still in the car. Think he used some sort of high power magnets to lift and hold the followers so they couldn't fall down into the trans. All seemed a bit risky to me but I guess if it could be done you'd save a lot of time and effort.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

Watch that if it is a spider drive oil pump, the spider doesn't fall into the gearbox.

Also, make sure you are replacing the cam with the same type of oil pump drive.

Unless yuo are removing clutch & flywheel, flywheel housing etc to get to the oil pump.

Invest in an engine crane and do it right. my 2c.

As said- on a 850-998-1098 or S, I'd think nothing of doing it in the car... but on a later type 1275 forget it..
I run one of these but with a pin drive S pump, and I'm still not game to try the Vizard `8x magnets on bits of alloy tube' trick.... one sneeze and it's engine out & gearbox strippin' time!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Get some rare earth magnets. The only problem you will have is getting the followers off them. They are unbelievably strong.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

This is a thing that I did a few times when I used to race Speedway. I experemented with a few cams till I found the one I wanted. I used to drain oil and fuel and water out of it. As the paint job or appearence was not so important on the Speedway Racer I used to roll the car up on it's side with my 4X4 with a rope over the roof and tie it to the passenger's side middle pillar so the timing chain engine side is up top and make it lean a bit over centre so the cam followers don't slide out. Remove the rocker shaft assembly and take the push rods out then proceed to the front of the engine and pull the cam shaft out gently so as not to drop the spider drive. I was always successful luckily. I remember eventually I found the Ivan tight grind 176/0 was the best for my purpose. it is the same as the 649 but has different timing on 2 and 3 to give them a bit longer duration to try and equalise induction. It worked real well.

i haven't tried it in the car as yet cos i always do a couple of things at once to make it worth pulling out.

So do you definitely have to cut grill pieces out or can you work around it with a little patience?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

The grille piece has to come out to remove the cam. impossible to remove with it in-situ. I hinged mine - and have a pin drive so no spider drive issues.

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!