Ok everyone I need Help drastically and i don't mean mentally either I'm switching over the carby in "the Heinz" 71 clubbie to twin 1 1/4's but the thing is I cant get to the manifold bolts to tighten them up. So the question is what do I do to get to the manifold bolts because I can't take the carbies off because I can't get to the bottom nuts to get the carbies off the manifold so what's the go?

HELP?!?!?!?!?!

Please?

Pat

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Team MADMAN/Pat Rogers

Usually it is possible to get the bottom bolt of the carby off with everything still bolted on (it's easier then taking the whole manifold off). You just have to try getting your hand and a spanner down there - helps if you take off the air filters and everything, gives you a bit of extra room. If you do want to get the manifold off I think socket wrench with the extender is the way - you can get extra long manifold nuts that stick out passed the extractors, these make it much easier.

depending on your manifold, and i am guessing they are three into ones you can't do the up on the car...... other manifolds, no problems at all. i have three into ones and what i found easier. not just in stress but in time, was to pull the head off the car, replace the carbs and put the head back on. good way to check you motor and head too! can get it all done in less than an hour if you wanted. trying to do it on the car.... well you couldbe there all day.

Cheers

Aaron

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A 1/4 inch socket set will do WONDERS here. It makes it an easy job with a couple of extensions added onto the socket.

Other than that, patience paduin. Use the force.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

To get the bottom carby nuts off, the only way I can do mine is with an open ended spanner which I have cut in half. Makes a short handle so its harder to put a lot of force onto. My spanner was also thinner than the standard sidchrome ones. In any case I first have to remove filters and backing plates to get enough room to place hands appropriately, one on each side of the carby. By this time my eyes are watering because of the sharp pain in my back form leaning over "un-naturally". As for the manifold nuts, (as honk says) replace them with the extra long "S" type brass. They make the job much easier for next time.

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Over 1,000,000Km, but now my retirement restoration project

I did much the same thing as above - I have big clunky sidchromes, but I went to a major toolstore and bought a stahlwillie spanner (ring open ender) of the approriate size which are much thinner. I didn't have to in this case, but I have resorted to cutting spanners in half or grinding off an edge previously as well.

I cut one of those cheap spanners from Bunnings in half
(at least that way they dont snap when you use them)

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Too many cars, and too little time.

I have a Sidchrome 1/2" dwarf ring/OE spanner cut in 1/2, then welded into an L shape.
The ring end has been heated & bend to remove offset, then thinned down with a grinder.
Apart from SUs it's real handy for getting those bloody nuts off mechanical fuel pumps, and holding engine mount bolts from inside...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

same here, old spanner cut in half.. keep both ends cos they do come in handy

one time I got a short 3/8" drive socket extension and ground flats on it to take a 3/8" spanner, it worked really well too, worked even better after I used it with the socket wrench to duno somethign that was really tight. It twisted along the length of the flat, so I can grab it at different points along the length for a different angle on the spanner