well i was out on a solo cruise tonight trying to get the km's up on my new engine.
I go to pull up at a set of lights and as soon as i put my foot on the clutch to stop the car stalls . I start it up and drive through the intersection, pull up up the road a bit and it stalls again i get out open the bonnet, everything looks fine, (not that i really know what to look for when a car stalls mysteriously). I think to myself it might be the clutch (then think it better not be as i have just spent over $1000 on getting the clutch fixed after the asshole that put the engine together stuffed it up.) but i dont see how it could be. anyway i drive home stalling most times i come to a halt with possibly one exception so now i am stumped. I am really starting to get sick of this cars problems please tell me it is something simple and that i am an idiot for not realizing what it was...

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

Thrust bearing sounds like its pulled an absolute shitter

that sounds bad but wouldnt that make the car not go? it drove fine and the stalling wasnt rough or anything.

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

start simple
check the carby oil..
check the carby piston
check the jet isnt sticking
check the choke isnt stuck
check the idle speed
check spark plugs
check for a vacuum leak

i did notice on starting up after stalling that idle was really low (under 500) and jerky then it would want to stall again until i gave it a revving.

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

Is it only when you immediately put your foot on the clutch?
Or....

check your carby air fuel mixture

Manifold air leak should be the first thing you check. Grab the carby(ies) and rock the motor back and forth see if anything moves. If it does check manifold nuts have not become loose or the gasget has not crapped itself. If you have a vacuum advance the diaphragm often gives trouble. I had nothing but trouble especially with getting a decent idle until I ditched the entire system and went to the "S" centrifical advance. Get the pipe that comes from the carby and suck. Do it while you have the dizzy cap off and are looking at the points mechanism. You should be able to suck and clamp the tube and it should stay there. If you have a brake booster check it is not leaking also.

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Over 1,000,000Km, but now my retirement restoration project

So it's definatly stalling.. not just cutting out?

Sorry to be bearer of bad news, but...
If it's stalling with clutch in and there's no release bearing noise, I'd suspect the thrust washers on the crank's center main bearing are fitted the wrong way round.
Keep running like that, and it'll shag the crank too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

is there a difference between stalling and cutting out? if so i think it would more likely be cuttng out

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

does the engine slow down (at idle) as you push the clutch in??

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

no, the ignition light just comes on when i am about 10m away from stopping with the clutch in and then the car is off.

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http://photobucket.com/albums/v684/64morris/

sounds like it's too lean at idle, or idling too slow then.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

do you have a booster fitted? Perhaps it is leaking...

or maybe vaccuum advance line is disconnected....