Don't wrench those bleed nipples too tight, it only makes removal difficult. They need only gentle pressure on a short spanner to seal.
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| Need help removing brake bleeder https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12928 |
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Need help removing brake bleeder |
Hey, I have a stuck brake bleeder in my disc caliper, I've tried four different Easy-Out things on there, as well as a chisel, oxy and ramming an allen key down there with no luck removing so far. Can I drill it out and re-thread it in the next size bleeder? Or am I better to keep cursing and burning things till the little bastard is out? Thanks. |
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| Author: | aaron [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sounds like you have tried most things. I would drill it out. best to use a bench press drill and make sure you have it lined up just right. Go alot undersized then work up to bigger bits until it come out. Good luck Cheers Aaron |
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| Author: | 68matic [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
tension between the head and the surrounding body is usually the only thing holding a bolt on. if you remove the head, you can easily unscrew the threaded shaft (and hence fit an identical bleeder). however, if theres corrosion under the head as well as along the threaded shaft then drilling out is the only option. |
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| Author: | 68matic [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
does that mean youve never undone the bleeder to bleed your brakes? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:42 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Save yourself the grief. Take it to a brake shop- they have the gear to fit a new nipple properly. It's not just like drilling and tapping a thread.. it has to have a taper seat to seal. |
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
68matic wrote: does that mean youve never undone the bleeder to bleed your brakes?
No, When my car was on the road it ran drums. Now it's getting rebuilt, I'm going the discs. The second hand set I got is pretty messy. I've already had 2 bleeders break off where it enters the caliper, but they eventually found their way out. I'll see what a brake place can do for me. Thanks for the help. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 7:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Don't wrench those bleed nipples too tight, it only makes removal difficult. They need only gentle pressure on a short spanner to seal.
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Nov 07, 2005 7:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I ordered all new bleed nipples for both calipers. I hate it when stuff is over tightened. I'm not the one who wrenched them up, must have been the prevoius owner. I'm still pulling these damn brakes apart. |
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| Author: | simon k [ Tue Nov 08, 2005 8:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Harley wrote: While I've got yas here, after the calipers are ready to be painted, should I assemble the two 'halves' and paint over the gap or paint the parts separately (easier to do the inside)and mask up the binding/sealing surface?
Will this need any special prep like gasket paper, silicon or anything? I can't tell if there is anything on there or not.  I'd assemble them and paint them, to be sure of zero overspray. S callipers don't use any gasket, but they have a sealing grommet where the fluid goes through. If you don't get any joy from us, as few people have Metro callipers, I reckon you should ask on Minifinity in the UK, they'd know about them... |
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| Author: | Harley [ Sat Nov 26, 2005 11:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, I'm now up crap creek without a paddle on this one. I took the caliper to work (engineering mob), no help there. So I went down to ABS brakes and left it there for a couple of hours. Apparently there is a damaged portion of a drill bit in there (hardened steel) and nothing can be done to get the bastard out. 
Oh happy days! 
***Edit 1/2 hour later*** It's out! Now to get it re-tapped. 
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| Author: | manofaus [ Sat Nov 26, 2005 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
bull poo seeing as you a up the creek... smash the drill bit out....... with a center punch... smash it with a center punch... after each hit turn it upside down.. bits of drill bit will fall out.. use a cobolt drill bit to get it out........ use a pin punch to push it deeper... use a plasma cutter and burn it out...... or go and get a left hand drill bit and try that. depends on how much a caliper is I guess... actually if you took it to a real engineering shop. er um where I work, we would set it up in the mill, get a solid carbide drill bit (about 30 bucks a pop) and plunge it into the thing doing about 3000rpm. Would fix it good. |
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| Author: | manofaus [ Sat Nov 26, 2005 3:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
sorry I didn't mean to say that your engineering shop is not good either.. I work in a tool room for a good portion of the day and we drill through solid chunks of HSS all da time |
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| Author: | Harley [ Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ABS reckon they used a carbide tip on it and it didn't work. The engineering shop wouldn't have tackled it till after ABS had a go. Anyway, in the end it came out with a regular drill bit, so either ABS has crap drill bits, or they didn't try very hard. And its a metro caliper, with these tiny screws, so I wasn't going to get carried away with a plasma cutter, yet.
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| Author: | manofaus [ Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
maybe they meant tungsten tip.. like a masonary drill bit... they work, but you need to grind proper clearance angles and cutting edges, only work for a short time too. *** edit *** like you said carbide tip...... a soild carbide bit actually does not even look like a drill bit, looks more like an ornament that you would hang on a chain around your neck. |
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