I've finaly instaled the Pulsar Bosch alt. like on JAM's site, it didnt allign, so I had to undo the nut and replace some of the washers to bring the belt closer to the water pump and in allignment.

Now it seems fine, the belt is in a sraight line and is not squeezed or rubbing anywhere. Its farily tight but doesnt appear too tight. The car however has lost 30% of torque. It drives fine and goes very well at the high speeds but in the low range it handles virtualy like a 998 (its a 1275).

I had it tuned by Ivan in Castle Hill last week and she went briliantly on the way home even though the alternator has failed and it was the battery alone. Since all I've done was to replace the alternator so I'd imagine the loss of power is a direct result. Could such a major loss it be caused by a slight missalighnment of the alt or an overly tight belt or something else?

Sounds weird to me- even if the alternator is charging at 75A, it's only 2 HP max to drive it (75Ax14V = 1050W..... and 1HP= 746W)

Maybe they bumped the dizzy timing in the process...?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

brand new alternator, reco or second hand?? It might be a dud.

It rings a bell with me. Had something similar 10 years ago. I will probe the grey matter and see if I can remember what the cause was.

Doubt its the timing coz we he it with a timing light (right after doing that Pulsar dizzy for Gareth) and anyway it was only a minute change from my manual setting.

Interesting, now after playing with the alternator angles everything seems much better but:

The light wouldnt go off when the ignition is off. Ie the Bosch alternator puts through positive to the ignition light whenever the big wire to the starter solenoid is conected. This is regardless of whether the ignition is on (or the thinner wire that feeds current to it on ignition is connected). So the light is on when ignition is on, stays on with the engine on but shines much brighter and only dies out at high revs. Then it wont come on again untill the car idless. After a few seconds on idle (and this is with a warm engine and the idle set perfectly with Ivan from Mini Spares and Repairs just a few days ago) the engine strats dying out, revs fall, the ign light comes on again and the engine vibrates like crazy unless you pump up the revs.

Should I readjust the carbys to account for the extra resistance of the alternator? What am I missing with the ign light?

The alternator is nearly new btw.

oh boy......I really hate trying to diagnose electrical faults! That sounds very tricky to me. Sorry I can't help any further........

Years ago I had an LJ Torana. Bought it without a motor, in very good nic. This was the car than ran like a dog, similar to what you described earlier in this post. I had endless electrical issues with it, eventually sold it to a mate for next to nothing. I regret that....as it caught fire on him!!

Check your Negative earth strape, Battery, Engine. Give them all a good clean and make sure all are metal to metal.

Can you photo the solinoid connections. Do you have two or three wires from the Alternator.

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

I ran some tests on it (oh yeah in between it has discharged my battery overnight to like 6volts). The alternator is working like a horse and is charging the battery briliantly when the engine is on, but it fails to switch off when the ignition is off, so the light stays on and it draws current from the solenoid connection. Enough current in fact as to discharge my battery overnight. Which in my book translates to a buggered regulator. I mean considering that all in all they are 3 wires to connect and they are connected right and yet its still playing up there's very little I can do.

Gonna go and get another one from the wreckers tommorow and try to return this (slim chance considering I had to undo the main nut to bring the puley inline with the water pump (and anyone who had to undo the nut on a modern Alt knows what the nut looks like now). Oh well, I'm getting my tips for the week tommorow night at work, should be just enough for the two alternators.

I'd stop stuffing about- take it to an auto electrician... they are used to jap crap electrics..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.