Well, I finally got my mini - instead of getting a roundie, it was because Pete stumbled across a 75 on South Road for $100. We've had it running, and it was making one hell of a racket - took the head off and one of the pistons can be pressed down half a centimetre (causing the racket?).

Anyway, we're trying to pull the engine out so we can take it to Advanced Engine Reconditioners and get a quote, but Pete's never pulled an east-west engine, and we're stuck. Has anyone got/seen a guide for pulling a mini engine, or is anyone willing to impart some helpful info that'll keep us sane? Thanks everyone.

Try the online Haynes manual

http://www.ackers.dk/miniforumdanmark/a ... 9fulll.pdf

Merry Xmas - Dat

Added: What are you "stuck" on in getting the motor disconnected to take out?

He's been trying to figure out whether or not the driveshafts need to be pulled out before the before the bellhousing needs to come off

Thanks for the manual link

disconnect drive shafts
then
motor with radiator attached [including the bell housing] comes out as one lump

What is he calling the "bellhousing"?....if it is the gearbox extension then that needs to be disconnected as well (assuming its not rod change)

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"Show me the Mini!"

I took one out today and this i found to be the best way.
Remove the following.
Earth strap, brake line, battery lead, clutch slave cylinder, fuel line to carby,
wires to engine and put tape on the end of these and mark where thay go,
2 bolts behind bumper to front of front end,
4 bolts holding cone towers to body,
4 bolts inside floor holding rear of front end,
Radiator shroud and radiator, this can be a pain in the but !
LH and RH tie rod ends,
Gear stick and rear remote or rod change mount,
Have i missed anything ?
Then you and a mate get either side of car and lift it under each wheel arch and walk backwards and place body on the ground.
Once this is done undo engine mounts and that should be that.

Took me about 2 hours.

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76 1275 Leyland S

I and i think most other people prefer to hoist the engine out the top.
the disadvantage of the subframe removal method is you have to re bleed the brakes, and those subframe bolts can be a real pain!

if your lifting the body off the subby a good idea is to suport the subby with some wood so it does not rock around when you lift the body and fall on your toes..hehe

Engine from the top
Earthstrap cluch side
diconnect Slave cyclinder includding spring
Fuel Line from Carb
diconnect wires from Altinator and Starter motor and mark them where they go
take off Alt and Starter
Rocker cover off and place lifting brackets on two studs
seen as its a clubby I'm guessing its got pot joints, Undo top ball joint and swing the shafts out of the pot joint (watch for the balls falling out and kep in a safe place.

and Lift

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

once a front subframe is out of a car, whats the best place to rest the front of the frame on..? I know there is not much weight and all, but i dont want to damage my car when I pull out the frame next weekend...

(and yes Gaf I am FINALLY going to do some real work on one of my cars..!!)

geez thats a good site Dat
ah is it just me or do those manuels retail for about $40 bucks
maybe its just me

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00' Forester GT

Everyone is forgetting the intake/exhaust/throttle cable...

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Oh, and the speedo cable.

(Sorry to double-post)

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.

Yer those two Stuwey


M..two spare tyre's as I have done or a bed mattres

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It