Hi All,

Firstly, thanks for a great resource, this forum is fantastic.

Secondly, I bought a running LS (Gold) in reasonable condition about 3 years ago. I currently have it in my garage and am planning full resto.

The question i have is how do i check to ensure its all original. Many thanks.

Jimbo.

To check it is an original 1275LS just look at the body number on the radiator shroud panel and it should say XNFAD18Y/10****
The compliance plate should match the body number.

To check that everything else is correct just post some pics and let us tell you what is missing or wrong!

Thanx Morris

Yep-I agree,post some pics up.We will be able to let you know if you have a rare SSLS or a LS

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Krazy Man

Thanks for the fast replies.

I actually purchased the mini from a gentleman in Geelong, and i think their were some pictures with that 'for sale' post. However i cant seem to find it when searching to provide the link (cuts me off after the first page of results).

It was too dark when i got hom to get the camera out, so i'll try and get some pics up soon. I'll check the engine numbers and compliance plate etc tonight and post here.

Thanks again,

Jimbo.

Ok.

In poor lighting i think i was able to confidently obtain the following:

Compliance Plate: 7/78 & XNFAD184Y/1029**
This number matches the number stamped on the radiator shroud

Number on Engine: 12YDTaH114**

Pretty sure there right. I am hoping they are matching and its original. Cheers.

Jimbo.

As far as i can tell you havnt got the original motor any more,checking throo the register they all start with "12h902****** im sure some one can tell you where its from...*enter Morris1100*

Pics dude we need pics

Engine is from a late Morris 1100S, has the big journal crank and rods.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the reply(s).

I am disapointed if its not genuine, was planning the full resto as an investment/sunday car. Not sure if i wanna spend the hard earned cash if its not.

I found the link from where i bought it. I must admit, at that time (and now) i wasnt really in the know when it came to identifying the keys...cheers and thanks again.

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic ... 75+geelong

Jimbo.

Still worth fixin mate , If not sell me that lovely big fat fuel tank you have

Just out of interest, is value significantly effected by a non matching engine number? I can only imagine so.

If I sourced a sepreate 1275 engine, would this still ensure it held its own in relation to being a genuine LS1275? I know these questions appear superficial so I apologise, im just a bit of a perfectionist....cheers.

oh yeah...i assumed you would already have one MM?

Jimbo.

If it were a replacement engine with the correct prefix, I'd say no, it wouldn't effect the value too much. That said, a well restored example even with a transplant will still fetch more than your average Mini.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I think the 12H902 thing wasn't used right from the start. Mine has 12H87UH (it is mistamped and should be 12H897UH) and another I found had 12H897UH. They were both XNFAD18Y/1029** cars so the yath engine might be correct. You'd never know because the records appear to be pretty incomplete.

Does anyone actually have a list of the original Vin/engine combinations from manufacture?? Also how did the Chassis numbers work because we have cars showing as 102*** and 104*** and 105*** but only 800 or so cars were made. I would have thought that 100001 to 100800 would have been sensible.

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Cheers
Alec
1275LS - July 78 - XNFAD18Y/102918

Sensible? Leyland?

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges