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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 4:57 pm 
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Hi all,
just getting the 1310 ready to go into Putt Putt, however I just would like to ask some advice/tips/ideas/tricks about fitting the following while this motor is out of the car.

I bought the following under the expert advice of our mates at minisport:
- Thermostat 74C and gasket
- Top and Bottom radiator hoses
- Hi Cap water pump and gasket
- 2 x Diff side plate gaskets
- A Gearbox selector shaft oil seal
- 2 x Diff output shaft Oil Seals
- 2 x Engine Mounts
- 2 x Engine steady kits
- Electric Fuel Pump
I have also got other things like a HIF44, Oil Filter, New Oil, Coolant, new plugs ........
The thing is is that I am sort of not trusting myself fitting these things for fear of stuffing it all up - so what I am asking (as i also need to read the manual) is for tips, tricks or ideas about fitting this these items (Silicon/Selastic, tensioning etc etc) - The wealth of knowledge in here is pretty amazing could you please help??? (a noobie alright I admit it)
Cheers Gerard


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 5:01 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Brisbane
I had a deal with a mini mechanic in Brisbane to fit it for me if i build him a website .... but he is pretty busy - anyone wanna free website I can trade u for fitting an engine and it's bits ..... :D

Else with the help of Gazza - I get it in next weekend - COOL
Thanks Gazza


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2006 10:28 pm 
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Location: Nothern Brisvegas
Is that this weekend coming? or the one after? please say it's the one after next :wink: and i'll be able to come around and supervise.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 1:08 am 
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Not this coming but the following - cheers NAV


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:56 pm 
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Location: Nothern Brisvegas
I've just been roped into overtime on sunday afternoon so hopefully you'll be going at it on sat?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 1:37 pm
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Location: Vegus, Brisvegus
I'll come over and lend a hand. Can't be out too long, rug rat at home...

Advice:
1) use rubber grease on all hoses so they can be removed easily in the years to come.
2) use engine mounts with captive nuts or buy a set of ratcheting ring spanners to get the mounts done up. be prepared to swear a lot otherwise. (I can bring my ratchet ringies)
3) use anti-seize on as many bots as you can but definately the thermostat housing ones. I hate having to cut the housing up to get it off.
4) ask someone else how to prevent oil leaks. I suck at that.

Have you got an air filter for that HIF? I've got a K&N offset cone one if you want it. A few beers and it's yours.

Edit: it looks like this:
Image
Image

M


Last edited by Mokesta on Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:55 pm 
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Thanks So much Mokesta and NAV

I think I did mention Sunday to Gazza - But I am hoping Saturday would be available to him (still yet to call him - if you see this first Gary is Saturday ok 4 u mate???) as I am thinking that would be a better time to start.....

And mokesta if you could bring those spanners it would be good as no captive nuts on mounts

Cheers Gerard


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 5:59 pm 
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Mokesta wrote:
2) use engine mounts with captive nuts or buy a set of ratcheting ring spanners to get the mounts done up. be prepared to swear a lot otherwise. (I can bring my ratchet ringies)


Nah, no need, take's 5 mins to do with a pair of long nose pliers :wink:
Once you have the knack. Jam_it will attest to how easy it is :lol:

Gerard make sure you document everything before you start, thruout and at the end. I want to see what Putt putt looks like with muscle.

You can start on friday gerad and get it undone sitting in the bay. That way you can pull it and throw all the bits on the new one and then just drop it straight in.

to top engine steadies, two lower steadies. two pot joints. two heater hoses. 1 fuel line. 1 exhaust manifold down pipe joint. 1 earth cable and the rest of the electric's(lable them as they come off)
and of course the rod change needs to be disconected. (reverse gear, punch out pin) engine will rise up out of the bay no worries. No need to take off rad, or carbs. it's a clubman an there's heaps of room.

Look after the ole girl for me :(

Cheers

Aaron

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 6:06 pm 
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oh yeah don't forget the speedo cable on the way out and on the way in :wink:

Cheers

Aaron

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 8:37 pm 
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Location: Vegus, Brisvegus
PM or email me with a time & place & I'll be there. Also tell me what you need tools wise. I've got a chain block for lifting the engine out and most other tools required.

This is my kind of project. One where the car goes faster at the end. I hate normal maintenance jobs or fixing broken stuff.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 8:40 pm 
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aaron wrote:
Mokesta wrote:
2) use engine mounts with captive nuts or buy a set of ratcheting ring spanners to get the mounts done up. be prepared to swear a lot otherwise. (I can bring my ratchet ringies)


Nah, no need, take's 5 mins to do with a pair of long nose pliers :wink: /quote]

bugger that, weld the bastards on...

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 9:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
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Location: Melbourne
8)
If your block has side cover plates don't forget to get new seals/O rings for the side cover plate bolts. Make sure you have the right type of side cover gaskets. There are two types. If you have the deep type with the dished edge (al la Cooper 'S') you need the thick rubberised cork gasket. If you have the flat edged type you can get away with the thinner cork gaskets. If you use the wrong ones you will get leaks.

Make sure you use the correct gasket for the front edge of the gearbox/crancase mating surfaces. Large bore 1275 block type are different to small bore type. The large bore type have a cut out for the oil filter housing and a dog leg or offset at each end to match up with the 1275 block flange. Rear edge gasket is the same for both small and large bore blocks. If you use the samll bore block front edge gasket it sticks out on the inside of the crankcase and you can end up with bits of gasket floating around inside the crankcase.

Dress back any nicks or scratches etc on any the mating surfaces to reduce the chance of leaks.

Make sure you use only genuine gaskets for the crankcase to block joint and the flywheel housing to block joint. These 2 gaskets are thickness critical to the mating and end float of the drop gears. Use dodgy gaskets and you can end up with idler gear end float or back lash problems if you reuse the idler gear thrust washers. These are expensive and if you use genuine gaskets you minimise the chances of having to buy new ones.
Lastly don't forget to fit the O ring to the recess in the gearbox top flange around the oil passage. If you forget and it happens often-no oil pressure!

Good luck
RonR


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 9:11 pm 
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Thanks so much for all the advice guys (and help in advance) it is all much appreciated - will document everything
cheers gerard


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 7:05 am 
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aaron wrote:
Mokesta wrote:
2) use engine mounts with captive nuts or buy a set of ratcheting ring spanners to get the mounts done up. be prepared to swear a lot otherwise. (I can bring my ratchet ringies)


Nah, no need, take's 5 mins to do with a pair of long nose pliers :wink:
Once you have the knack. Jam_it will attest to how easy it is :lol:




EASY with OLD mounts......

2 new mounts + fitting into a Mini = :evil: :evil: :evil:

Ask GAFMO....he and I tried for hours and eventually put one new and one old in. 2 new ones are just too thick and don't line up with the holes! :shock:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 8:04 am 
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JAM_IT wrote:
aaron wrote:
Mokesta wrote:
2) use engine mounts with captive nuts or buy a set of ratcheting ring spanners to get the mounts done up. be prepared to swear a lot otherwise. (I can bring my ratchet ringies)


Nah, no need, take's 5 mins to do with a pair of long nose pliers :wink:
Once you have the knack. Jam_it will attest to how easy it is :lol:




EASY with OLD mounts......

2 new mounts + fitting into a Mini = :evil: :evil: :evil:

Ask GAFMO....he and I tried for hours and eventually put one new and one old in. 2 new ones are just too thick and don't line up with the holes! :shock:


line up the motor and drop it the last inch or two to squash the mounts, then get them right with a screwdriver :wink:

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