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| time to fix the clutch!!! OH NO!! https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14760 |
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| Author: | mccabe998 [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | time to fix the clutch!!! OH NO!! |
lol hey guys, ive finally come to my sensors and i am gonna have a crack at my clutch.... ive spoken to a few of you recently on this and i have sought some advice from "bromley" he is gonna speak to his mini cc in wagga tonite and see what they suggest my first thing is im gonna take the clutch cover off today and see if i can see the problem... just a bit of help may be needed... do i have to disconnect anything on the engine before i jack it off to slide the cover off? |
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| Author: | Circus_Maximus [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The clutch slave return spring (a pair of long nose pliers will do), and you may lose some knuckle skin at the same time. But that's just part of the game, and there is also an electrical earth strap from the engine to the body which you should not forget to re-connect when re-assembling everything. |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Also disconnect the battery as you may have to take off the solenoid and maybe the ignition coil depending on where each of these is mounted. On mine theses are mount of the clutch cover/transfer case and simply get in the road while doing the job. Failure to disconnect the battery will result in lots of sparks as you earth the positive wires to ground. This could also provide a means for all the smoke to escape from your wiring harness. As we know the wiring harness is simply hollow plastic tubes full of smoke waiting to escape. back to a more serious comment - if you can get yourself a 1/2 AF rachet ring spanner you are going to save your self heaps of hard grind and swearing as you try to undo the bottom bolts on the clutch cover. This is after you have undone the clutch side engine mount and jacked up that side of the motor. Also after you undo the flywheel bolt and are using the flywheel puller (hope you have one !!), tighten the puller a bit and then give the fly wheel a couple of taps around its diameter with a solid hammer. Taps not full bodied whacks - then tighten the puller a bit more - then tap it again. The aim is to get the flywheel to just pop off (it may be partially bonded to the crankshaft taper) off the taper. The last thing you want is to have the flywheel to come off the taper with a bang and do damage to the engine bay or worse. There is a tremendous amount of kinectic force being applied to the flywheel so treat it with respect. Having said that 80% of the time the flywheel just pops off with very little force being applied via the puller. I have, on a number of occasions, tightened the puller, gone away for coffee, tappped it with a hammer, tightened it more, had a soft drink. Tapped it more etc. Good luck |
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| Author: | mccabe998 [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i ahve almost all the bolts undone atm i just have 2 underneath... i have been told to " jack that side of the motor up" where should i jack it up at.... |
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| Author: | min13k [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 4:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
peice of TIMBER under the gear box close as possible to the clutch end makka |
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| Author: | Mike_Byron [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 5:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Jack it up on the far left of the gearbox (near the clutch cover) and use a block of wood between the jack and the gearbox so you spread the load and dont simply punch a hole through the gear box. You dont need to jack it very far, just enough to give you access and be able to pull the clutch cover off. Handy hints that may have been already said but .... Change the clutch oil seal - its only $5 - 10 worth but make sure it sits correctly on the crankshaft. I use a thin bit or cardboard (ex kellogs packet) to work the labia of the seal into the correct sitting position (once the new seal is sitting properly in its casing that is). Once the clutch is reassembled on the flywheel, take the tension up up stages - eg 50 lbs, 80 lbs, 100lbs - have coffee and then check it again or take it to what ever you manual says. Read the section on adjusting the cluttch throw out in the manual. Then that section to someone else to read and then get them to explain it you you to see if you both interpret it in the same way. Not enough clearance and the clutch wont work and too much and it wont work so its a fine margin and has to be right. Hope I am not talking down to you - I am not trying to do that - again good luck - Mike |
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| Author: | mccabe998 [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 5:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
nah not talking me down, i need ya help mate! cheers!! i should have it off soon |
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| Author: | 9YaTaH [ Mon Jan 09, 2006 8:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Engine mount |
Have you undone the engine mount bolts under the sub-frame 
I haven't tilted an engine like this before....but I would imagine you may have to undo the bolt to release the engine block end of the engine steady
Ohhhh...and when jacking it up....watch whats happening to the radiator on that side....don't go too far  
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