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Solid Engine Mounts.. Yea or Nay ?
https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15465		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  kazjim [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:26 am ]
Post subject:  Solid Engine Mounts.. Yea or Nay ?
ok, Starting to formulate the upcoming rebuild (Thanks ATO ! - you guys rock!!)
And I'm adding some pretty hard-core bits and pieces already....

a DRMINI ST Lightened Flywheel / backing plate, "Orange" diaphragm and clutch plate, etc etc etc, But what i want to know is "Has anyone solid-mounted an A series Recently ?"

I'm thinking of making up some solid steel mounts, solves a few minor hassles, ie engine movement affecting the HUGE exhaust system i have above the Head-Level (Turbo Dump pipe),

Currently running 1275 Radiator side steady, as well as a Clubman Rod-Change steady under the car, as well as NEW minispares engine mounts.... - Still some movement....

So, Solid mounts and a Radiator end steady with urethane bushes should really solidify things, yes ?

I'm not too concerned by the increased vibration and noise.... hell, its a Turbo Small block, its not like i drive it hundreds of kilometers a week !

Cheers
J
Author:  Harley [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Dont do it!
The vibrations will tear the car to shreads before you know it.
Author:  awdmoke [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 9:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Dean is the only one I know who has done it in a road mini,
and he has no problems (not a turbo A-series though)
Author:  gafmo [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:28 am ]
Post subject: 
yep Dean has done it and its bigger than a A-series :wink:
Author:  Besser [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:29 pm ]
Post subject:  solid hmm
Could go solid but they may not be necessary.

If you use two top mounted engine steadys then your sure to avoid engine rock and dont need the solid bottom mounts.

By the way new bottom mounts are quite solid as the rubber is new and fresh. As they get old and deteriate they get softer.

Go rubber and steadys and youll be pleased with the results.
Author:  awdmoke [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Has anyone tried those 2 pce urethane mounts?
Interested to see what they are like.
Author:  Harley [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
You cant look at solid mounting as "the engine wont move", but rather "what if it does?"
In this case if it moves even a small bit, the subframe will distort slightly, which considering it holds all the track and suspension system shouldn't really be done.
The additional vibrations will mean you are forever tightening and screws and nuts located anywhere on the car too.
Wanna try something? Undo all the vibration control from your exhaust pipe and hard mount it to the car. I promise within 6 months it will have fallen off.
Author:  fuzzy-hair-man [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Are you turboing a 998 again or a 1098 :?: because the 1098 crank harmonics are supposed to be bad (worse than the 998) so I am wondering if this will effect you if you solid mount the engine. :?

With the current setup is it the bottom mounts that are moving or is it the top or the whole lot :?:
Author:  min13k [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
change to a remote boc james
makka
Author:  Matt68 [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 3:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Try an additional lower engine steady. It goes from the left side at the bottom of the gearbox (passenger side) back to where the subframe mounts on the body. Padstow has them, and they are a really good piece of gear. (adjustable too) 8)

I recommend anyone with a rod change to get one.

Otherwise do the traditional urethane top rubbers and the second top steady (or is the huffer in the way of that one?).

Solid mounting not good. Not good at all.

Matt
Author:  drmini in aust [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yeah, Dean does have solid mounts on the Starlet turbo donk. But already various things on the car not bolted solid are vibrating in symphony.....
And any A series is much more agricultural in the vibration stakes...
:cry:
I'd get 2 top steadies, new std mounts, and add lower steadies if still moving.

Or as suggested, go a remote 4 synchro box.... :wink:
Author:  cazmo [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Matt68 - Where can i get one of those lower engine steadys?
Author:  smithy [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 10:21 pm ]
Post subject: 
(Some?? a lot of ??) Rovers have a gearbox to front subframe engine steady. There's a bracket that bolts to the gearbox, a dogbone with bushes, then the front subframe has a bracket welded to it for the dogbone to attach to. I've got a couple of sets in the shed somewhere. One day I'll either weld a bracket (bit of channel with holes) to the front subframe or just bolt it on. Couple of weeks ago some one sold the bottom steady off a Morris on Ebay for over $50 !!! It was adjustable though. That made me think about making mine adjustable. Easy peasy as Matt would say. Cut, thread, tube nut, voila, that'll be $75 me old mate.

At least with solid engine mounts you won't have to worry about the earth strap any more. Personally I wouldn't go that far. To much vibration through the car. Your nuts would drop off.

smithy
Author:  gafmo [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
drmini in aust wrote:
Yeah, Dean does have solid mounts on the Starlet turbo donk. But already various things on the car not bolted solid are vibrating in symphony.....
And any A series is much more agricultural in the vibration stakes...
:cry:
I'd get 2 top steadies, new std mounts, and add lower steadies if still moving.

Or as suggested, go a remote 4 synchro box.... :wink:

But do you think he has just got the engine in and the gremlins are popping thier heads up..
Maybe some loctite may help :roll:
But i can only agree any engine stead can only help..
Two Piece enigne mounts stories I would also be interetded in also ??
Author:  smithy [ Wed Jan 25, 2006 11:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi gafmo,

I've got two piece quick release deflex polyurethane engine mounts in. Is taht what you mean ? These are the ones that half bolts to the engine and the other half to the body. (As an explanation that'll do. You all know what I mean.) All you need do is pull an R clip and a pin to undo. No nuts and bolts to undo ? Or worse still, do up !!!

I'm pretty happy with them. They are "plastic" so a bit firmer than rubber but not appreciably so. Vibration isn't worse and as for transmitting road noise I can't hear over the exhaust note anyway.

I only use the car as a daily driver so I don't know what they would be like in racing. My problem was whether to get them in black or yellow. Ended up getting 2 sets in black and 1 set in yellow. (One to use and two to lose) Jeez they make life simple with the engine now.

The spares are in the shed, deep under all the other stuff for the "Project". The only thing I've actually found recently was a genuine straight through original, not made for many, many years Lukey muffler with the second box built into the tail pipe. Nice piece of work, beautiful note. Only reason I went to all the trouble was someone on here made me an offer and since I had two of them I gave in. Still get twinges of regret. Mind you, if he sells his Mini I've said he has to sell the muffler back to me.

smithy who wrote all that and gafmo was prolly meaning something else.
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