I am in the process of designing my own flywheel removal tool (one that does not require spanners or sockets), but i've hit a bit of a hurdle. There is one part of this design that is rated at a maximum of 5 tons of pressure. My question is: will 5 tons be enough?

I know that some flywheels like to play "hard to get.... off" but is THAT anywhere near 5 tons?

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

you'd want it to be able to handle more than that, but then again most arent on too tight as some would say, then again a way to help remove the fly wheel is to tap it thru the starter motor hole to loosen it up a bit, etc.

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No no!!! You dont want to hit it off centre like that (thru the starter hole)..... that's a nice way to possibly damage the whole lot.


... ps. there's no "e" in TAP

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

sorry mate, tired, been workin night shift etc etc, lol

no mate, when i said that i meant, when you pull the fly wheel thru, you hit it to shock it, so it will come out easier, carefully ofcourse, dont go at it like a mad man.
Miniman (matt) would know more. Wait for his reply.

p.s i did say "tap" , tapping wont hurt anything...

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Yeah no worries



With the flywheels i've encountered, tapping wouldnt do crap. About as effective as using a cotton bud to clean the opera house.

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Yeah....its more of a sharp rap witha BFH driving some wood through the the starter motor hole.

BTW if you are thinking hydraulic removal tool....I would be very careful....if the flywheel is welded on like a lot of them are....you could end up with an explosive situation when it lets go.

Man, its dicey enough as it is sometimes gradually applying pressure by screwthread. Strongly recommend you make up one of the Docs 1/2 inch plate pullers (do a search).

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"Show me the Mini!"

well,,,i couldn`t tell you how much pressure it`s taken to get the worse flywheel i`ve ever had to remove off, but i can say that it was a Phuckin wickedly humungous amount

i use a hydraulic(grease) puller that i bought from the local tool guy (hee hee, "tool guy" sounds bad hey?) anyways... i then grabbed an old flywheel centre & had the inside taper section machined straight & then threaded it to suit the puller thread, then i elongated the 3 holes for the 3 puller bolts to to go through to allow for both the std early flywheel 3 bolt puller pattern & also the verto ones too, & of course the vertos are metric so i just bought 2 sets of bolts, now there`s only ever been one flywheel that it hasn`t taken off in 15 years & it really was literally welded on from spinning, had to be cut off.

My dad has a couple of the std factory pullers, (the big hydraulic 90deg buggas)but i like mine better

& there really is nothing wrong with smackin em through the starter hole, i do that too, helps Jar them loose more times than not...BUT!!! there is a knack & i`d sday that practise makes perfect here, you really do need to know how to swing a hammer properly & make sure you don`t smash the primary case. "Smack, then turn 1/3rd, then "Smack again,tighten puller & turn 1/3rd & "Smack & so on...

also the only flywheels that i don`t recomend you smack through the starter hole are the good old 1100"S" ones, they have an extra chunky lip of metal around the back section & it will break off if smacked with a hammer.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

If you really MUST smack it, best way IMO is to wind the puller up, then use a VBFH and a THICK copper or brass drift (curved to shape) to strike the front of the flywheel HUB part from the side, just in from where the key washer sits.
GR has done it this way for years..

BTW Mick (9YaTaH) my puller is way thicker than 1/2 inch, that will bend....
read the instructions again, please...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah....shoulda....1/2 inch sounds like about the minimum....sorry

[hang on, real men don't need instructions ]

UPDATE: Dennis and I whipped the clutch and flywheel off the 1100 donor engine....practically fell off....next one will be welded on for sure

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"Show me the Mini!"