Hi guys
Yep the 1275 is now in and drives nice ... however i am getting a bit of a problemo.

The more I drive it at one time (ie after probably 40km round town driving) the harder it is to get into gear, so changing down gear at a set of lights or intersection when cold is easy but as (the oil i guess) heats up it won't go into gear unless I depress the clutch and push it into neutral, pump the clutch a few times and then change it down a gear.

Master Cylinder is full and there does not seem to be any leaks in the slave cylinder..... has anyone had this problem or have any idea what it could be?

Cheers Gerard

Okay - a couple of answers here.

Firstly assuming that you actually do have the pivot pin through the "O" in the bottom of the master cylinder.

The master cylinder has a "flow past relief valve". That is that when the master cylinder begins to fail the excess fluid feeds back into the master cylinder resevoir.

This also happens should there be a blockage in the rubber hose which happens when the rubber begins to perish.

Minisport (and presumably Brickworx) has new master cylinders, rubber hoses and slave cylinders for a very reasonable price. Just replace them rather than trying to kit them out unless money really is an issue

Have you adjusted your clutch properly?

steve

the clutch was working great a couple of weeks ago with the 998 - but it could be getting old...Cheers Mike

Steve, I have not adjusted the clutch on this motor .... is it an easy process?

Cheers Gerard

Very

steve

yeh my clutch is in too much, so i cant push it all the way in(if that makes sense?), and its a bit hard when changing down to second gear... and crunches a bit when putting into reverse sometimes. how do u pull it out more?

steve #2

Remove return spring on clutch arm and check the clearance between arm and stop bolt on cover. Should be .020" gap. Refit the spring.
If you are still having a problem with clutch throwout it is something else- wear in the linkages, worn seals in the MC or slave cylinder, or air in the system.

Pedal must be able to go all the way to floor.
Often, when a new clutch is fitted and flywheel has been lapped on many times, you find the top of clutch arm is positioned farther out than the makers intended.
Then, the slave cylinder piston can hit the circlip, which limits the clutch pedal stroke.
If this is the case, there are 3 methods any of which will fix it-
1. lengthen the pushrod in slave cylinder by 1/4". or,
2. heat and bend the top of clutch arm. or,
3. Remove circlip from slave cylinder. This is easiest and will allow the slave piston to move further. Works for me!

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ta kevin
much appreciated

G'Day Doc.

Two of your remidies (extending the push rod and bending the arm) were suggested by me to some-one else about 6 or 8 months ago when another person was having hassles with their clutch - I was told it was a "dodgy Bros." fix.

Mate, if you have done it before, then I will keep it in my "box of tricks".

Hooroo

_________________
Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

I reckon 2/3 of Minis out there in Oz have one of these mods, all do work.

One that does NOT work is welding the ball on the end of the clutch arm.
The bottom end of the arm is hardened and even TIG welding my cracked one by a Cigweld expert only lasted 3 months.
If it is worn bad, or broken, do yourself a favour- chuck it and buy a new one. They are only $50 or so and will last many many years if well greased.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.