G'day,

Im looking to order a Clutch master cylinder kit from Karcraft. But I am unsure of what one to order cause I have the old school sinlge line plastic tank MC with the same innards as a tin tank... (correct me if im wrong there). Any help would be great

Options are:

CLUTCH M/CYL KIT - MINI - .700" (PLASTIC TANK)
CLUTCH M/CYL KIT - MINI - .750" (TIN TANK)(NO GROOVE)
CLUTCH M/CYL KIT - MINI - .750" (TIN TANK)(GROVE ON BODY)

Clutch or brake?

Might have to simply pull it apart and measure the bore once you're there if you're not sure.
Guaranteed you'll order the wrong one if you don't.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Standard clutch one was 0.750, not 0.700.
0.700 doesn't move enough fluid, always gives you a dodgy draggy clutch.

Most of those Clubby type MCs take the `no groove' seal kit.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Great thanks for your help guys.

I wonder what the difference between the no groove and groove is?

So are both MCs on my clubby 0.750", cause they look the same? But they are also lockheed and PBR.. you'd think they would just used the same..

Cheers again

pulver, when you get the kits let me know how much you got them for. I have had troubles navigating the KarKraft website to get prices.

Karcraft don't post prices up to their website cause i think they vary fairly often. You can email them for a quote or ring them up and ask for a catalouge. I just ordered some stuff then and asked them to send me a new catalouge along with the order. So i'll be up to date again.

email is: [email protected]

Tom,
Let me know when you are ordering stuff from Kcraft. Not sure if you are interested but we could save $$$ by splitting the postage cost. I seem to do an order with them once every six weeks and it always stings me $10-20.

Oh on a side note I know your sister from uni, we did BABusiness together.

Cheers,
Andy.

cool... It sure is a small world hey..

Yeah that Karcraft thing sounds cool... The last package I got sent air mail cause i needed the parts the next day. It was great too, parts were at my doorstep in 24 hours. But next time i'll ask them to road post it..check the price difference..

Cheers

oh and yeah.... I got the clutch kit and all that and im pretty sure its the right one (cheers everyone). But when I checked out the clevis pin's on my MC's I realised something wasn't right....

The brake pedal Clevis pin is the upper one.



Bit dodgy hey... using a sawn off bolt which I think has rooted the end of the pushrod on the Clutch MC.

But...now I have changed both pins over the clutch is working much better...

Cheers

If (when you pull it apart) it ends up a .7" type, then i`d suggest the same as the good Doc does & swap it over for a .75" type one.

a lot of the later minis did have .7" clutch masters fitted & were a pain in the butt after a few years of use/wear/& tear to the linkages /pivot/clevis pins etc

I always, without fail, always fit a .75" clutch master cyl,,,No Matter What.

I will not (if i can avoid it) ever fit a .7" clutch master cyl

YUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Im hoping it's a .750" cause thats what I ordered!

But I think ill end up getting a new/replacement one anyway cause I think the pushrod is rooted because of the dodgy bolt/clevis pin.

How can you spot the difference between a 0.750" and a 0.700"?

Cheers

well i can just look & tell the difference these days, but use a set of "verniers" if you aren`t sure.

The bolt type clevis pin was probly an after thought, after it was allready rooted, (maybe) & if it`s the exact same size as the std clevis, then shouldn`t be a problem anyways

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Just measure accross the bore, the 0.70" will be 17.5 mm, the 0.75 will be will be 19 mm.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Yeah im pretty sure it was the same size as the original. But isn't the idea of the clevis pin to wear and not the push rod. And because the bolt was a harder metal than the push rod, the push rod wore and not the bolt. Thats what i thoughts anyway..

Not to worry...

Is there a way to tell the difference of the bore without removing it? Or is the outer diameter of the MC the same for both varieties?

Sorry for all the questions and all that..

Cheers