ok im gettin to boiling point with my brakes.

i have just put in.........

new master cylinder $150
new slave cylinders front and back $150

and the brakes still dont work properly......

we have bleed them heaps and heaps......and the pedal goes basically to the floor on the first pump but gets pressure on the second pump....!!!! so annoying...

there are no leakes in the pipes and have checked them all......


please help....im gettin annoyed at it and i need them fixed for thurs as im goin for blue slip....

cheers.....

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I always try to think...
If at first you don't succeed; take it to someone who knows what they're doing

i wanto try myself first......and then i try the experts on this site and then take it to the other pros.....

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Just because you fit new parts does not mean that you have fitted good parts.
I have installed new wheel cylinders with leaking seals.
I have installed re-conditioned calipers with split seals.
I have installed new wheel cylinders that were cast porous.

Do you find air out of all the bleeders or just one?
How are you bleeding the brakes? (there are various ways to do it and some of them are not good)
Did you remember to fit the clevis pin to the master-cylinder?

yer tested the master cylinder and its ok...

what is the correct way of bleeding...

and whats the clevis pin and where is it... just not sure what and where it is

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Clevis pin is the locking pin that holds the pin that connects the master cylinder to the pedal . It's essential but really has nothing to do with the braking system other than holding it together .

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If the clevis pin is missing the brakes may still work but the pedal will be horribly low. Very frustrating

I stole this from Colin Dodd's SpriteParts website.

It works for me - says clutch master but check you dont have a clutch cylinder for a brake

Bleeding brakes usually isn't a problem, as there is (should be) a valve in the bottom of the master cylinder that lets you build up brake pressure, and makes bleeding easier. That's not the valve's purpose, but it is a consequence of it being there.

The clutch however has no such valve. So if you have an air bubble in the line, you put your foot on the pedal and the bubble moves down the line, take your foot off and the bubble moves back again. Makes it really difficult to get the air bubble to the bleed nipple end.

After many years of frustration, I have developed the following method, and it usually takes me about 5 to 10 minutes. Note: this is written for right hand drive cars. Some obvious changes will be needed if you have a left hand drive car. Without really long arms you will not be able to reach both the clutch pedal and the slave cylinder at the same time!

1. Remove the bleed nipple entirely and clean the threads on a wire brush.
2. Fill the master cylinder. Ideally, have an assistant standing by to keep it filled during the process.
3. Remove the driver's side seat base and/or the steering wheel. Not always necessary, but if I don't do this I can't move to step 4.
4. Armed with the bleed nipple and a 7/16 AF spanner, crawl into the footwell.
5. With your right forefinger, block off the bleed hole in the slave cylinder - your finger is now the "bleed nipple".
6. With your left hand, push down the clutch pedal.
7. Take your finger off the slave cylinder, count to 1, put it back.
8. Lift your left hand from the pedal, count to 5, push the pedal down again.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until fluid forces it's way past your finger.
10. Repeat 2 more times, then replace the bleed nipple and tighten it. While you are doing this, brake fluid will by running out the slave cylinder as it will be gravity bleeding all by itself.

"Count to 5" in step 8 is important. When you lift the pedal, you create a partial vacuum in the clutch line. This sucks some brake fluid out of the master cylinder and into the line. But brake fluid is a little viscous, and it takes a few seconds to suck it into the line.

i will grab my dad and give it a go... brb

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just rang my uncle who is a mechanik but lives out woop woop...

he said something about ....... the cylinder is filling up on the first pump and on the second is pushing against the drum......

do anyone kow if there is a way of adjusting this...if so were????? and how?????

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Ah yes , I see what you mean now , you're talking about the pin that halds the master cylinder's rod to the pedal , I thought the clevis pin was the locking pin that goes into that pin . Yes , if that pin is missing then the bakes will be vey vague ........

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the clevis pin is there.....

is it possible to adjust the slaves like mentioned in other post....

need to know so i can work out if i need a mechanik to fix before blue slip on thurs..

cheers

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this may be a dumb question, but have you actually adjusted the brakes? sounds very much that way given all your bits are new..

adjust them up so that the shoes *just* bind on the drums - you ought to be able to spin the wheel by hand and hear the shoes scraping, the wheel ought to make 3/4 of a revolution after you spin it by hand...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

no we havent...... i think thats what my uncle was tryin to tell me...

how do u do this ......

thanks heaps man....

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i get what u mean on how to do it now......cheers.... will try it now

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