Hi Guys this is my problem. Every service station in St George will not accept my Mini for a wheel alignment as the wheels are to small for their machines..

How does one do an alignment using chalk ??

The mini is a Cooper S with hydro suspension and adjustable tie rods

Thanks Brett

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A retired Mechanic I used to know did mini's with a tape measure , can't remember the measurements though but check on someone elses that's been done professionally (or just go and get yours done where they did) . Measure at the front of the wheel's where you can get the tape straight across and then feed the tape through at the back and do the same . He always seemed to get it pretty damn close by this method but I can't remember the difference in the lengths , and he's passed away now so can't find out . There was another method using chalk marks on the tyre but I'm not sure of it . Either that or find an older mechanics workshop that doesn't have the computerised wheel aligner , they should be able to do it for you .

EDIT- Oh , ny the way , the above method work's best if you have nice , open treaded tyres that have a constant edge on them somewhere to measure to . Falkens were his favourites when I started using them , nice straight edges to measure to ....

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I read only recently on here that 1/16th of an inch was all the toe in you would need.

Having never done this at home, I don't know how you will get a straight line from the front of each wheel to the other with the guards in the way, or doesn't this matter? Just get the tape up as far as you can?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

1/16th toe OUT - it's in the workshop manual

I dunno how to do it though, several people on here do, but have so far remained tight lipped about it

however, with adjustable tie bars, you're in the poo a bit doing it yourself because they adjust the caster, which doesn't have any significant impact on toe... I have a set I plan to put on soon with some longer bottom arms and I'll be going to a wheel alignment place down this way... even Pedders down here can do minis, except they do a crap job

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Pity you're not in Sydney - I could point you in the direction of someone to help.

My tip is to try and find an old school suspension or tyre shop that still has the old mechanical machines - not this new fangled computer/laser crap.

The guy I go to uses the most Arcaic machines I've ever seen, but damn he does a good job.

The problem with most large chain tyre shops is that they get these computer machines, and for the most part they're being worked by people who aren't mechanics. They just have a front end certificate or similar, and from what I hear, it ain't exactly hard to get. (I know there are exceptions so don't flame me or get shitty if anyone out there is or knows one of the good ones!!).

Most of these places will align your wheels regardless of whether or not there's actually an inherent fault there. The other problem is that they just look up the factory settings, and reset them to that, pretty much no matter what. No scope for tuning or modification. What bloody good is that to us - how many of us have cars which are exactly stock??!!??

My guy checks out everything thoroughly, and road tests it (With customer in the car so he can explain what he's doing if you want) about 3 times (before, during and after). He looks at tyre wear and asks about your driving style and asks about the way the car behaves. He then aligns everything to suit. I've been to him about 4 times now and both my cars are better for it. He also charges less than most "Discount" wheel alignment places would.

There's gotta be someone old school like that around where you are - someone on here can surely help. Just avoid anywhere with a waiting room and a palm tree!!!

Good luck!!

PS. For anyone in Sydney wondering who I was referring to - Rex Stafford Steering & Suspension. 2 Orchardleigh St Yennora - 9892 4077. Highly Recommended - and used to own a Mini!!

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Bob Slattery
Duffman Says A Lot of Things - OH YEAH!!

Here's some old school:
The guys I new doing it simply used a piece of builders line (Or Gunline that you get from camping stores and disposals), and simply measured to a point on the sidewalls at the back of the front tyres, and then repeated on the front side of the tyres.
They kept making adjustments until the line was 1/16th LONGER at the front than at the back of the tyre. Has to be done with the tyres on the ground and the suspension at normal height I believe.

Also had to be careful that you used a similar amount of strength to keep the line taught at both sides of the tyre so as not to stretch any precision you might get out of the job.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

In all my experience the measurement was always made to the edge of the wheel rim and not using the tyre itself. The points were always where a vertical centre line crosses the wheel.
One method is to count the number of threads on the Track Rod End. Same each side means you should be centred (steering wheel should be set at dead ahead too). Then adjust very carefully to make toe out. Beware, you'll loose the tyre pretty quickly if it's not spot on though. I've only done it once, not recommended.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Wheel Alignment $50
Pair of front Tyres $200 or thereabouts

Pretty easy equation to me

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Bob Slattery
Duffman Says A Lot of Things - OH YEAH!!

50 bucks plus the cost of travel to Brisbane.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

which bracket do you actually turn to adjust the front toe in?? I've adjusted the adjustable tie rod and have improved the turn in substantially. But I kow it's still not right.

Cheers

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If you have a std Mini without adjustable tiebars or adjustable bottom arms
you can only correct toe in / toe out
For dummies:
1. Ensure car is at the ride height you want it
2. Visually point the front wheels straight ahead and try and align them with the rear
wheels (a string line will help here)
3. Count or measure the number or threads showing on the tierod ends (these are
the swivley bits on the end of the rods that come out of the steering rack that when you turn the steering wheel move the wheels) these should be equal
4. Now from the front of the car, measure the distance from the centre of the tread
on the r/h tyre to the centre of the tread on the l/h tyre half way up the tyre I used a
piece of timber with two bits of wire about 6" long to point at the centre of the tyres
5. Repeat this on the rear of the tyres centre to centre, this distance should be
1/16" to 1/8" less than the front, thus giving you toe out
6. Adjust the tierod ends equally to achieve this

Easy peasy

Blue

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Keep shiny side up

All of the above: To make measureing easier I read an article on making your own measure device. Take two pieces of flat timber 25x10mm combined length greater than the width of the car. cut a 4mm slot in the end of one about 200mm long about 50mm in from the end. the other piece put two short bolts with wing nuts about 75mm apart. These go in the slot and tighten to give an adjustable length. Couple of long 75mm+ nails in the other ends for contact points. Start at front mark centre of tyre with chalk. Adjust pointers to meet the marks. Roll wheel through 180* line points up to marks and there should be 1/16" dif

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

how do I adjust the tie rod end??

cheers brett

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as far as I can see it is has only one nut do I simply turn it?? or do I have to unbolt it and then turn it

Cheers guys
Brett

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I'm guessing you are talking about the thin nut that's done up against the tie rod end ? That's just a lock nut , knock the tie rod end out of the steering arm after undoing it's nut , loosen the tie rod end lock nut and then the tie rod end should turn to make the adjustment . Lock it up with the lock nut again when you're finished and it shouldn't move .

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