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 Post subject: Cam Shaft Removal
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 6:52 pm 
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998cc
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I too have my block finally apart from my gearbox. It was a very interesting process with help from most mates from ausmini, thanks guys. SO now that it is apart, im in the process of taking out my hot cam. So far i have the oil pump off, which still looks new, and i have the timing cover bolts off. What i need to do is find out how to take the dizzy shaft out, as it looks like a captive bolt, and also how do i get that massive bolt that goes thru the timing cover, i think i need something to hold it so it can turn the nut.
much help needed miniman (Matt) and drmini (Kev)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:10 pm 
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place a clean solid block of wood into path of the crank so that it jams between crank and engine casing - this stops rotation so that both crank nut and cam nut can be removed.


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 Post subject: Re: Cam Shaft Removal
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:12 pm 
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=twista= wrote:
I too have my block finally apart from my gearbox. It was a very interesting process with help from most mates from ausmini, thanks guys. SO now that it is apart, im in the process of taking out my hot cam. So far i have the oil pump off, which still looks new, and i have the timing cover bolts off. What i need to do is find out how to take the dizzy shaft out, as it looks like a captive bolt, and also how do i get that massive bolt that goes thru the timing cover, i think i need something to hold it so it can turn the nut.
much help needed miniman (Matt) and drmini (Kev)

After you remove the dizzy and the flange thingy under it, screw a long bolt with 5/16"UNF thread (rocker stud is good) into the dizzy driveshaft, and just pull, it will come out.

Are you talking about the big nut on the cam, or the crank pulley bolt? either way it is a 1-5/16" socket size (or 33mm if U got one of those).
Best to undo both while the motor was on the box and flywheel in it. Bit late now... :lol:
Use a rattle gun if you have one, otherwise put a bit of 4x3 timber in the block to stop the crank turning whilst you undo nut/bolt.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject: Re: Cam Shaft Removal
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:30 pm 
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998cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
=twista= wrote:
I too have my block finally apart from my gearbox. It was a very interesting process with help from most mates from ausmini, thanks guys. SO now that it is apart, im in the process of taking out my hot cam. So far i have the oil pump off, which still looks new, and i have the timing cover bolts off. What i need to do is find out how to take the dizzy shaft out, as it looks like a captive bolt, and also how do i get that massive bolt that goes thru the timing cover, i think i need something to hold it so it can turn the nut.
much help needed miniman (Matt) and drmini (Kev)

After you remove the dizzy and the flange thingy under it, screw a long bolt with 5/16"UNF thread (rocker stud is good) into the dizzy driveshaft, and just pull, it will come out.

Are you talking about the big nut on the cam, or the crank pulley bolt? either way it is a 1-5/16" socket size (or 33mm if U got one of those).
Best to undo both while the motor was on the box and flywheel in it. Bit late now... :lol:
Use a rattle gun if you have one, otherwise put a bit of 4x3 timber in the block to stop the crank turning whilst you undo nut/bolt.


is there an easier way for both these tasks? :lol: i tried the block of wood, and tried to undo the nut, with no luck, even with me standing on the block it still wouldnt come undone. :roll: also with the dizzy shaft, i have no studs lieing around, as they are all in the block with the head, yep you heard me correctly, "in the block with the head!" :x

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 7:41 pm 
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As the gearbox is off - you can just reach in and push the dizzy shaft out with your fingers once the dizzy and it's flange are off. It just needs to be rotated slowly as it comes out to disengage the drive teeth.

As to the big birtha buggers- you just need more oomph. I'd combine the block of wood and the rattle gun [now that I have one lol] - failing that use longer levers


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:08 pm 
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WhoDat wrote:
As the gearbox is off - you can just reach in and push the dizzy shaft out with your fingers once the dizzy and it's flange are off. It just needs to be rotated slowly as it comes out to disengage the drive teeth.

As to the big birtha buggers- you just need more oomph. I'd combine the block of wood and the rattle gun [now that I have one lol] - failing that use longer levers


OK i managed to get that flange off, with a socket i didnt know i had, so that dizzy shaft is out, now the only thing IS that big burtha of a bugger, i definetly cant get this bastard undone, i dont have enough leverage nor weight to hold the block down to undo the **** thing. i dont have a rattle gun, nor a compressor, maybe i could take it to a mechanic to undo the thing? any recommendations?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:36 pm 
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I found that, if you can get a proper 1-5/16 ring spanner on the pulley nut, and have got the crank securely braced so that there is no rotation in the direction you're trying to undo the nut, you can give the spanner a mighty wallop with a club hammer and the shock will undo the bolt. I had to set this up carefully, the pulley doesn't allow a lot of bite on the nut. This probably wouldn't work on a socket/wrench combination - you'ld probably break the ratchet on the wrench.

I wasn't game to try this on the cam nut, and wound up resorting to the old cold chisel and lump hammer method. It too worked with one blow, so no substantial damage was done to the nut.

You have bent back the locking tab, haven't you?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:44 pm 
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Hagar wrote:
I found that, if you can get a proper 1-5/16 ring spanner on the pulley nut, and have got the crank securely braced so that there is no rotation in the direction you're trying to undo the nut, you can give the spanner a mighty wallop with a club hammer and the shock will undo the bolt. I had to set this up carefully, the pulley doesn't allow a lot of bite on the nut. This probably wouldn't work on a socket/wrench combination - you'ld probably break the ratchet on the wrench.

I wasn't game to try this on the cam nut, and wound up resorting to the old cold chisel and lump hammer method. It too worked with one blow, so no substantial damage was done to the nut.

You have bent back the locking tab, haven't you?


Nah Hagar, im talking about the massive nut on the timing cover pully. i cant undo it. ive got the crank bolt out, with the fly wheel, but its the nut on the opposite end that i cant undo, it doesnt have a tab. I have although tried the ring spanner, and tapping a hammer on it, biut as you said it is quite difficult as you cant grip the nut enough.

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Last edited by =twista= on Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:46 pm 
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It has probably got Loctite in the threads, better than locktabs..:)
get a socket and bar, and 3ft of pipe... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 9:58 pm 
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... and give the bolt a whack flat on the top with a BFH first to help wake it up :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 10:33 pm 
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The big problem i think you`ll find is how to hold the whole motor as you`re trying to undo the big bolt.

maybe a couple of big mates & another big bit of pipe or wooden beam (4bee4) inside the block, carefull not to damage any part of the crank rods cam etc tho

if you are sus at all about breaking stuff, then rip it all down to a mechanic with a rattle gun & be done with it

sorry i was a bit late clicking onto this one,

have fun man

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