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| Hydraulic Brake Light Switch https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17935 |
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| Author: | pulver [ Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Hydraulic Brake Light Switch |
G'day, Just a quick question... Im pretty sure my brake light switch is stuffed cause lately it took a lot of pressure to get the brake lights to come on. Now they don't work at all. The thing is.. I only replaced the switch 6 months ago... so now im thinking it's not the switch. I bled it above the switch and got no result...and its not the fuses or the globes... I really don't want to replace it again cause i'll have to bleed the whole lot. Could I replace the switch with one near the pedal? How difficult would that be? Any hot tips for me? Thanks everyone ! |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Probably the switch gone again. They don't make `em like they used to. My new one lasted 3 weeks, then I went and got another old one at the wreckers, and that was 2 years ago- it's still working! 
Easiest way to fit the one on the pedal is go scrounge one off a Clubby. 
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| Author: | pulver [ Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yeah it seems like it is stuffed like you said.. I have just been out cleaning all the terminals but to no avail  .
Where abouts are those little mechanical switches mounted? Maybe I could rig somthing up until i get access to the actual part.. Cheers |
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| Author: | ryan [ Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had similar troubles, repllace it twice, then gave up. I mounted a switch near the pedal, its actually mounted on the bracket for the steering column, you no the one under the dash, just above the pedal, so that when the pedal is not engaged it presses against the switch, and when engaged it lets of the switch. I got it from jaycar for about $3. It's a little black swith, with a long flefible bit af metal that is the actual switchy bit. and i was lucky enough that the wires from the old switch were long enough to fit through the firewall to the new switch and i didnt have to change the spade connectors. I just drilled two holes to mount it, a little fiddly, but the entirejob took 15min max. Ryan |
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| Author: | pulver [ Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ahhhh i get it... so I need a switch that switches off when i depress the pedal? Sound like the go! Thanks fellas |
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| Author: | Metalfab_101 [ Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ryan wrote: I had similar troubles, repllace it twice, then gave up. I mounted a switch near the pedal, its actually mounted on the bracket for the steering column, you no the one under the dash, just above the pedal, so that when the pedal is not engaged it presses against the switch, and when engaged it lets of the switch. I got it from jaycar for about $3. It's a little black swith, with a long flefible bit af metal that is the actual switchy bit. and i was lucky enough that the wires from the old switch were long enough to fit through the firewall to the new switch and i didnt have to change the spade connectors. I just drilled two holes to mount it, a little fiddly, but the entirejob took 15min max.
Ryan I think you're talking about a microswitch of some description. You can get these with 3 terminals so they can be used as normally open or normally closed. |
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| Author: | bnicho [ Fri Apr 07, 2006 12:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Super Crap sell a universal switch that fitted straight into my Moke. The bracket was already there to fit it on the pedal box! 
If the bracket is not there on your car, it should be pretty easy to make one up. Cheers, |
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| Author: | Gordo [ Fri Apr 07, 2006 4:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Funny you mention your brake switch failing... We have had massive issues with brakes and blowing fuses on our clubby... It went to 4 different places before it was fixed, and it coated the around $10,000 paint job in brake fulid 3 times!! First it blew the lid off the master cylinder, so we took it to the mechanic around the corner, he said it was the master cylinder so he "fixed that" didnt even make it 500 metres down the road and the brakes went again sprayin fluid every where again, this time it came from the inlet brake line to the booster, (the dickhead first mechanic cross threaded it causing the flare not to seal) so i then fixed the booster and took it to a brake specialist the bleed the brakes as i couldnt.. He said it was all fixed lasted a day (still blowing fuses willy nilly) then took it to a auto elec he said everything was fine but it was still blowing fuses.. Then we tool it to another auto elec and he said it was the brake switch arcing out ad glowing red hot (blowing the fuse) and boiling the brake fluid, which caused the lid on the master cylinder to blow off... fiddle sticks only took 2 months to figure this one out.. And while it was off the road te damn starter motor went in it (sorry for the sorta hijack) |
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| Author: | pulver [ Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Bloody oath that's something i've never heard of before there Gordo. So whats the moral to the story? Hydraulic Brake Light Switches are crap... I got myself one of these today 
Which I wired up and mounted against the steering column. Its all working well now which is a relief! Hopefully I will never have to screw around with it again for a while... mind you its only taped in there for now... So i will have to screw around with it soon and make up some sort of bracket! Thanks for your help everyone... very much appreciated ! |
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