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auto box https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17987 |
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Author: | sumanovic [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:40 am ] |
Post subject: | auto box |
hello, this is for a friend again, he is wondering if he buys a mini that is manuel can he convert it into a auto and how much would this aprrox. cost? thanks in advance. ~sumanovic |
Author: | 9YaTaH [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:37 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: auto box |
sumanovic wrote: hello,
this is for a friend again, he is wondering if he buys a mini that is manuel can he convert it into a auto and how much would this aprrox. cost? thanks in advance. ~sumanovic Yes he can....and if he is handy it shouldn't cost too much....may have to change or modify the front subframe...... go and see Steve at Brickworx, ergh Brickworks, ergh...however he spells it ![]() |
Author: | sumanovic [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:44 am ] |
Post subject: | |
he has limited skills with cars, and would have to get someone to do it for him. thanks 4 the help tho... ~sumanovic |
Author: | 9YaTaH [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:51 am ] |
Post subject: | OK |
Well.....Steve can certainly help him auto-up a Mini.....wonder if he runs a payment plan ![]() ![]() ![]() your friend could always go this way..... http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17981 |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:54 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Subframes are different for autos. They are a bit wider, the front channel is curved outwards, and the engine mounts are different too. Also, the cylinder block has a different oil supply system, it comes up from the autobox's filter- and there are a couple of oilways that the auto block doesn't have. Driveshafts (on the Oz MiniMatics) use Hardy Spicer couplings (same as Cooper S). Best bet is get a complete motor/autobox/subframe/driveshafts. The old ones here were all 998s, I'd go for an ex-Japan low mileage 1275 auto front cut from Brickworx. ![]() |
Author: | sumanovic [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:09 am ] |
Post subject: | |
sorri, i have a lack of knowlegde with auto boxes in minis, are ther any major problems or issues with them??? or is it better to have a manuel..? ~sumanovic |
Author: | simon k [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:16 am ] |
Post subject: | |
your friend is probably best off buying a late model import auto... you'd pretty much have to take the whole front end out of an auto car to put it in a car that was a manual, as Kev says |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:17 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I've had lots of manuals, and 3 autos (2 were in Morris 1300s, same box). The autos are OK if the oil and filter are changed regularly, but although 4 speed, they are not very smooth. Also autobox parts are not easy to get here, nor are people that know how to rebuild them. The autos are slower than a manual as there is a bit more power loss thru the box. Your call.. ![]() |
Author: | simon k [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:22 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I forgot to add - if he bought a front cut from a late model car, the auto subframe would NOT suit any australian built shell - it'll only suit a rover shell as the subframe mounts are different, there is possibly a conversion kit, but I've never heard of one |
Author: | willy [ Sun Apr 09, 2006 1:03 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
skssgn wrote: I forgot to add - if he bought a front cut from a late model car, the auto subframe would NOT suit any australian built shell - it'll only suit a rover shell as the subframe mounts are different, there is possibly a conversion kit, but I've never heard of one
Wrong. Only thing needs changing is two holes on each side of each "arm" at the back of the subframe, into the floor. This is not solid mounted like early models, there is a rubber mount between the subframe and the floor. Top bolts will not fit through the centre hole of an 850 bulkhead, but a quicky with the die grinder will see ease of fitment of said bolt. That is all. |
Author: | aznpride [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:16 am ] |
Post subject: | |
drmini in aust wrote: I've had lots of manuals, and 3 autos (2 were in Morris 1300s, same box).
The autos are OK if the oil and filter are changed regularly, but although 4 speed, they are not very smooth. Also autobox parts are not easy to get here, nor are people that know how to rebuild them. The autos are slower than a manual as there is a bit more power loss thru the box. Your call.. ![]() True, I have a 1968 Mini matic (4speed auto) putting the car into gear is sometimes a lil rough. Like drmini said, their ok if the oil and filter are changed regularly. |
Author: | doogie [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:26 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Here is a late model rover automatic mini set up in a 1971 Oz clubman, only mods to fit the subframe was drilling a few holes for the subframe mounts. ![]() Doogie |
Author: | bnicho [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 9:50 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I have just (yesterday!) completed building an Auto Moke. The engine/box is a 1990 A+ 1275 inserted into a 1968 Mini Auto front subframe. Everything just bolted in with the correct Auto mounts. Having driven a couple of early Autos, the 1990 one seems a lot smoother. Also it changes DOWN as you slow down, like a modern car. I don't remember the early Autos doing that. It also has Park, which early Auto's do not. I too would suggest your friend buys a late model car off someone like Brickworx. It will probably work out cheaper that way than buying a nice early Mini and converting it to Auto, if he/she has to pay someone to do the work. Cheers, |
Author: | poeee [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:29 am ] |
Post subject: | |
OMG Brett, COMPLETED?! ![]() ![]() Will it be there this weekend? |
Author: | bnicho [ Mon Apr 10, 2006 12:07 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
poeee wrote: OMG Brett, COMPLETED?!
![]() ![]() Will it be there this weekend? Yes, it will be at the Muster this weekend. ![]() Still a few details to sort out, gotta adjust the kick-down, tidy up the dash and console, buff the paint, clean and fit the top, but MOPOKE will be there! ![]() |
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