Well the Mini has been going pretty well, until lately its been running pretty not so good. I stopped the other day and removed the dizzy cap, and touched the rotor button, put it back together and it ran much better (noticably). So I thought I should replace the points, which is what I did yesterday. Now it wont start at all

So I thought I would put the old points back in for starters to make sure it wasnt the new points the problem, but Im not positive how the wires should connect to the breaker set.

There are two wires, one goes to the capacitator (earth?) and the other comes into the distributor from somewhere else.
The silver tab wire (has a silver metal bit that attaches to the points) - does that go on the bottom and makes contact with the points?
then the rubber seperator
then the wire with the brass tab?
and then the nut to hold it all to the points.

Problem is the silver tab has a little "tab" that is bent up/down, it appears that the tab should face outwards and then would contact with the brass coloured tab but this doesnt make sense as Id expect they shouldnt touch. When I pulled the old points out I didnt notice which way the wires were facing (*slap on wrist).
They are GL19 points.
Can you tell me:
The tab on the silver tabbed wire - does that tab face toward the points or outward toward the brass coloured tabbed wire?

Shheesh, thanks if you can help

Jill

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

Crikey Jill

The insulated wire coming through the side of the dissy goes to the points spade lug....

Sounds like the rotor might not have been correctly located...if you could push it down....

DID you clean off the grease muck from the brand new points

Get yourself a breakerless kit or fit a Pulsar Dissy to avoid future hassels

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

dont worry I was in the process of ordering the Petronix electonic ignition last week when easter interupted. It'll be ordered this week

The rotor is good, and the new points were clean

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

but which way up does the silver plate go? It has a tab on the side thats bent over, do I face it up (and it might touch the earth lug) or face it down so it touches the points?

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

Sorry Jill but you have lost me....have you removed the base plate that the points sit on

....apart from the insulated wire that enters via the side of the Dissy there is usually only a braided earth (that you can't really get wrong) and of course a Capacitor/Condensor bolted to the body for an earth....you can feed the low tension through the capacitor to the fixed points...does that make sense

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

you did set the points gap, didn't you?

yes I removed the base plate (that is the old GL19 contact points set?).
To do that I had to undo one screw and disconnect the 2 wires that are attached via a small nut, both wires are separated by a rubber separator (that comes with the points set).
When I took the old points out, I didnt notice which way around the bottom wire was placed. If its "lug" (metal plate with a hole in it that fits onto the points) faces down then the little extra tab of metal off the side of that lug will face down and touch the points body. If it faces up, the little extra tab will face up and touch the other wires "lug" that also is a piece of metal with a hole in it. Both the pieces of metal with holes in them attach to the points separated by the rubber separator. You guys have probably done this in your sleep and dont think its important, but I cant work out why it wont start now, so hope that its that Ive got that bottom wire lug up the wrong way.

Bottom line is: Those 2 wires should NOT touch at all, where they attach to the points??
It makes sense to me that they shouldnt touch, but the marks on the lugs indicate that they did/do/might have (when the car was running).

*looks for "Fixing Minis for Dummies"

and yes Im sure they are adjusted right, cam at highest point, gap set to 0.38mm ( Ive tried 0.35 - 0.40mm)

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

OK the moveable plate is OK to move....it is the base plate underneath I was asking about...the two wires should connect together...but what you may have done is somehow "shorted out" the points....if the insulator on the stand-off is not put together right you can short the whole lot out.

Do you have a workshop manual

Otherwise, I will be working on my Mini tomorrow and could take some pictures.....spose to be working on the other end of the Mini tho

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

OK...does this help ....make sure the little insulator under the spade lugs isn't cut through allowing the points to short out.

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Trying not to sound to rude, but maybe u shouldnt fiddle with things that u either dont fully understand or dont pay enough attention as to how it came apart? A dizzy baseplate with a set of points would honestly be one of the simplist bits of mechanics around. Mite be a good idea to invest in gregorys workshop manual? They are quite helpful, has exploded views of bits n pieces.

_________________

http://www.youtube.com/user/Hanras

yes well how would I learn if I dont give it a go huh?
and I do normally take care to take things apart knowing how they go back together but this time after I took the little nut off the wires and points just "fell out" and it was "oh sh@t, which way round did they go?"

yes I have a gregorys workshop manual, it doesnt have pictures or an explanation that explicit. I'll go read it again, and try it all again... thanks anyway for trying to help guys

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

hey Jill the reason these people are unable to understand what you
are talkin about is due to the fact that they al own roundies, hence
do not have the later distributors. they early ones, have orange and black wires that screw into place,

where as later ones (that you and i have on our fantastic clubbies) have the orange and black wires attatched to a flat metal tab that you simply slide
onto the points (there will be a a plastic part at the end of the points that wyou can slide the flat metal strip in and out a bit) at the end of the flat metal piece near the plastic part there will be a metal flap that you are meant to slide the orange and black wires on to.

that is a horrid explanation. but at least someon on here understood you. PM me if you need any more questions answered or feel free to msn me [email protected]

cheers
chris

thanks Chris, I got it sorted, had a mechanic friend drop in and have a look.
The answer to my question "should those two wires touch?" was Yes.
Battery was flat, but now I have spark, she'll be going in an hour or so

For anyone who looks up this thread in future, the GL19 points on the 43D distributor, go back together:
Points,
the two wires,
THEN the rubber separator thingy that slides down the shaft to insulate the wires from the points.

_________________
78 van 1300 cam extractors weber, 12" Superlights Metros Konis HiLos MP3 Amp Sub Alpine speakers and lots of fur
www.crazybitchracing.com

Thanks Jill....I wasn't paying attention...roundies rule my world at the moment

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

I feel sorry for you