Hey,
I'm not sure how to check whether i have electronic ignition or not... i bought my mini under the assumption that it had pointsless ignition since that was the way it was advertised. Since it wasn't a major thing that i was concerned with i didn't delve into it further and just took the guy's word for it.

Now, today my mate said let me have a look at your coil... he's running a GT40R on his TA22 Celica and said that my GT40R should actually be a GT40 if i've got electronic ignition. Another mate of ours has a new GT40 sitting in his shed that he mistakenly bought for the Celica.

Should i be buying this off him to put on the mini or is there no discernable difference between the two? What would be the problem if i'm running electronic ignition with a GT40R?

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- Simon -

GT40 has no resistor. GT40R has resistor. Thats the difference, i dont know what would happen if you put the wrong one in..... i have a gt40 in mine with elec. ignition.

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Present owner of Coopa.S

It all depends..
Most electronic conversions eg Pertronix ignitor are made for a 12V (3 ohm) coil. such as the GT40.
However, if you use a GT40R (1.5 ohm) one it will work, BUT current through the ignition system is approx doubled. This can cause failure of the ignition unit, or the coil.

Note if using the popular Nissan Pulsar dizzy in a Mini- GT40R IS the right coil to use in this system.

Resistor coils such as a GT40R are usually used with a ballast resistor wired in series. These can be bought at Autobarn, Robbos Spares etc for around $15. If you use one of these, your GT40R coil is OK with a Pertronix etc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you read the Bosch books they say that the GT40 range is designed for points systems and to run different coils with electronic systems.

yes but it depends on your definition of `electronic'.
the GT40 is not specifically designed for electronic, however the Pertronix ignitor IS designed to use a stock 3 ohm coil, not a resistor one.
Note that `proper' electronic ign coils are often less tha 1.0 ohm...!!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok, so now how do i work out what i have in my mini... i can see that i have a GT40R because it's written in massive letters on the coil... but what about the rest of the stuff... i can take pictures of things but won't know what i'm looking at.

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- Simon -

What is the dizzy number, and is there a separate electronic module, or is there just a device mounted inside the dizzy?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My mini lives down the street in a locked garage... i'll take a look next time i'm down there. I drive it mainly on weekends so it may be a day or two.

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- Simon -

There's a pic of my dizzy. Do i need to get all the numbers for a positive identification or will this pic suffice?



Also, i noticed this the other day... it looks quite worrying... what would one do to stop this spring from pulling through and going twang some day? I'm guessing i'd have no clutch once that happens.

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- Simon -

That's a D4R83 Pulsar Dizzy by the looks of it...GT40R coil is what you need.

With the clutch arm, you wouldn't lose you clutch completely, but you'd want to get it fixed, it'd just be a bit slow on the uptake.

Pull the split-pin out and remove that tab, weld up the hole and then drill a new one

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I figured i probably had the right coil... the rest of the car seems to be put together ok. I'll take pleasure in telling my mate that he's wrong. Trying to tell a mini owner about mini stuff. pfft... Toyota wally.

I haven't looked properly... that arm is easy to remove? I wish i had a welder.

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- Simon -

The litttle spring (or its absence) will have abosultely no effect on the operation of your clutch. (Indeed, depending on the state of adjustment your clutch may even work a bit better with it gone).

Its there to stop the throwout bearing wearing prematurely. Look closely and you will see that the little tab with the hole is held on by the pin connecting the slave rod to the clutch arm. If you are concerned; remove the tab and take it somewhere for a dob of weld or just get another one from some old Mini. The car will work fine without the tab and spring for a few days (or indeed , probably for ever....

Cheers, Ian

sweet... thanks.

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- Simon -