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 Post subject: What should i use?
PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 3:39 pm 
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Hi All

I am currently wirewheeling and sanding the floors in my austin back to bare metal. i will have to get a little section welded in aswell where the rust has eaten a little section away.

After all of the floors are rustless, i am going to paint them the original colour of tarton red and hopefully have a sound deadener underneath it.

but here is my question. i obviously dont want to the floors to rust again so i am going to do it once and do it right so that it will last. so what i should i use underneath to prevent it from rusting again?? i have heard of POR-15 and a few others but which is the best to use? i dont want to be ripping out cracker's new interior so i want to make sure that it is done well.

Any hints, comments and criticisms are welcome :wink: let me know what you think is the best and recommend :!:

Cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 4:56 pm 
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ill be doing the same thing soon and ill be using matt's stuff...

go to his post in here.. prices are on the following page $11 a can from memory (4 cans)

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16227&highlight=shell+prep


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 7:30 pm 
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are you talking about the deadener?

cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:28 pm 
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Are you looking for an undercoat for the externals of the car ? Also if you are cutting out the floor wont you neeed to remove carpet etc. if you are looking for paint contact topline paints as they do alot of stuff for industrial capabilities and I also think they supply some paints to mitsi's for their cars. For sound deadening aren't you going to use it under the carpets ? eg a liner


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:41 pm 
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i am going to do under the car later, but for now i am focusing on the interior.

by priming and painting the bare metal floors will this be enough to seal the floors on the interior side hence stopping any more corrosion? or is there a specific primer or substance i should use before i paint them? i know i need to do underneath aswell.

steamer i think you miss understood what i meant. once this is done i am going to put in a completely new interior so i want to do this once and do it properly as i dont want to pull out the new interior and risk wrecking it.

I think i will forget about the sound deadener and just use the underlay and carpets from newton commerical.

cheers

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 9:47 pm 
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Have a look at this site(as per Miniworld)
www.rustbullet.com
See-what you think?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:34 pm 
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matt van'74 wrote:
are you talking about the deadener?

cheers


yeah the deadner


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:06 am 
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I'll be using POR15 for the the Intire front floor area in Marcia, no I'm not touching underneath. I have already used in the inner Gaurds engine bay and front subby. Its not cheap but the claims are well and above every thing else I read. you will have to take out the intior if you are wire wheeling or welding anyway


www.pore15.com.au

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:47 am 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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take out the 'e'... ;)

http://www.por15.com.au

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:08 am 
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Bugger Cheers Josh

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:14 am 
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thanks for that

the interior is out while i am doing this work but AFTERWARDS i am going to be replacing all of the interior with new stuff from newton commercial so i want to seal and fix the floors so that it will last and i wont have to pull out the new interior to fix any imperfections

sorry that part wasnt meant to be that confusing :wink:

so the general consensus is to use POR-15 then :?:

cheers

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 11:08 am 
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Yep another vote for POR-15. Once you use it and it dries you will realize why. It's not like paint at all.

Be prepared to pay about $100 for a litre of the stuff. About $66 for the POR-15 and $24 for the metal ready.

Buy some latex gloves (about $3 for a dozen at woolies) and some supercrap brushes. Don't try to wash up, just throw the gloves and brush away after each coat. You will want 2 coats on your floor.

You need the gloves because you really don't want to get it on your skin. It takes a while to wear off. I have a spot on my elbow thats been there for days. Solvol won't budge it. I look like a grease monkey full time :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:45 pm 
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When I did the 850's floor inside and outside after welding front pans in, I used Norglass epoxy tar (a.k.a. tar epoxy). $42.90/L from www.biasboating.com.au
4L is $124.90.
I gave it 2 coats, inside and outside.

When Anton hosed the car out after purchase, it was watertight! :lol:
Good enough for protecting metal hulls in saltwater... 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:48 pm 
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thanks Doc,

what is the finish like? would i be able to paint over it without too much hassle? i assume i will need to sand them slightly

i know they will be covered anyway but i want it to look pretty :oops:

thanks everyone much appreciated :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:56 pm 
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go the POR-15 love the stuff gret for subframes to and u can buy it in colours and heat proof i have used it in heaps of thing and its simple to use as well but as said its not cheaps stuff.


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