TK wrote:
don't have to remove the oil pump to change the cam. (oh and no need to remove the head)
PS. no point in my opinion to replace a standard cam with a warmer one unless the engine is balanced inc flywheel ass.
Headwork depends. My race 1275 cost nearly one $1000 plus parts.
Hmmm - true with the balancing but the standard cam is a slouch. I changed mine with a sprite cam and it improved it out of sight. Balacing to me is weighing everything and getting it close to each other. But I dont race them so dont go to the full extreme of blueprint and balance.
The 202 head is a good start and will give you the basis of a good start. A word of advice though - when you are getting it machined, get your local to remove the "beaks"(for want of a better word...lol) to improve the flow effect. Stops the carbon deposits too. Here is the head I am using and you can see the place where the "beaks" in the combustion chamber were removed...this is a bonus too if you go the forced induction route as these beaks will get very hot and can lead to pre-ignition and damage.
[img][img]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/CPOCSM/1a25729f.jpg[/img][/img]
Dont let them fully polish it - few or no gains whatsoever and will be covered in soot at first start up. The "rougher"surface allows the fuel to atomise where sometimes if the intake surfaces are polished, it causes the fuel to form"blobs" rather than the fine mist required for good combustion. More of a bling/wank move and will save you about $50 in labour.
Good luck and Hooroo
Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!