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| engine build q https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18853 |
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| Author: | mooman10_0 [ Sat May 06, 2006 9:54 pm ] |
| Post subject: | engine build q |
I have a good running 1100 taht will be going in my next project. Whilst the motor is out I was thinking of replacing the cam. How far do I have to pull down the engine to do this? Also ho much would it cost approx to get some more power out of the head, e.g. larger valves, porting polishing, shaving? Whatever else. 
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| Author: | gafmo [ Sat May 06, 2006 10:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Take Head off pull out rods and take out Cam followers from the the back plates. take timeing Cover off Timeing Chain and sprockets. Take off the Oil Pump and pull out the Cam. replace in reverse order. New..Gaskets Cam followers and I would not be surprised the timing chain. Cost for the Head..$400++ depending how far you want to go |
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| Author: | TK [ Sat May 06, 2006 10:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
don't have to remove the oil pump to change the cam. (oh and no need to remove the head) PS. no point in my opinion to replace a standard cam with a warmer one unless the engine is balanced inc flywheel ass. Headwork depends. My race 1275 cost nearly one $1000 plus parts. |
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| Author: | mooman10_0 [ Sun May 07, 2006 7:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
So would you just suggest head work? If so what is best to do to a standard 12g202 to get some more grunt.? |
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| Author: | CPOCSM [ Sun May 07, 2006 8:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
TK wrote: don't have to remove the oil pump to change the cam. (oh and no need to remove the head)
PS. no point in my opinion to replace a standard cam with a warmer one unless the engine is balanced inc flywheel ass. Headwork depends. My race 1275 cost nearly one $1000 plus parts. Hmmm - true with the balancing but the standard cam is a slouch. I changed mine with a sprite cam and it improved it out of sight. Balacing to me is weighing everything and getting it close to each other. But I dont race them so dont go to the full extreme of blueprint and balance. The 202 head is a good start and will give you the basis of a good start. A word of advice though - when you are getting it machined, get your local to remove the "beaks"(for want of a better word...lol) to improve the flow effect. Stops the carbon deposits too. Here is the head I am using and you can see the place where the "beaks" in the combustion chamber were removed...this is a bonus too if you go the forced induction route as these beaks will get very hot and can lead to pre-ignition and damage. [img][img]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/CPOCSM/1a25729f.jpg[/img][/img] Dont let them fully polish it - few or no gains whatsoever and will be covered in soot at first start up. The "rougher"surface allows the fuel to atomise where sometimes if the intake surfaces are polished, it causes the fuel to form"blobs" rather than the fine mist required for good combustion. More of a bling/wank move and will save you about $50 in labour. Good luck and Hooroo Rob Forsyth Miniot!! |
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| Author: | gafmo [ Sun May 07, 2006 10:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
you are correct Tk no the oil pump does not need to be taken off to replace a cam, its just I like to check it when an engine is out to see if its worn and need replaying. Specialy as its on the fly wheel side and hopfully won't need touching. The reason I mentioned taking the head off was mainly due to mooman was asking questions about the head work. Once again if an engine is pulled out of a car its a matter of checking things are good with the Valvue's and seats. 202 heads are a great head for a 1100 don't let anyone tell you otherwise, with a little work here and thier |
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| Author: | mooman10_0 [ Sun May 07, 2006 10:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
So what do you guys reccomend I do to this 12g202 head? |
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