lately the car has been conking out... like i would be driving it and i would take it out of gear and start rolling to a halt at the lights and the engine would stop..... possibly this is tied in with the clutch problem ? ..this is when its warm... it almost seems for the idle to be set too low.. but it sits around 1,500

when trev the moke did that i replaced the gaskets for the tappet covers, rear part of the engine under the carby.

i think it had something to do with an air leak. try that Nick

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would i need to remove the engine for that... i have to do my clutch as well.. and i know how much a bitch that is...

The clutch can be done in situ but is fiddly(easy for me as I am very short in stature hence can get into tight spots...). It is a feat when you finish it too let me tell you.

I agree with the comments and I think your problem might be a leak somewhere. Another thing to look at is when you shut the car off, pop the bonnet and feel the carby - you may have icing issues causing the piston in the carby to stick and not return to the bridge. Canberra was notorious for it - Adelaide will be getting pretty cool right about now.

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

The clutch can be done in situ but is fiddly(easy for me as I am very short in stature hence can get into tight spots...). It is a feat when you finish it too let me tell you.

I agree with the comments and I think your problem might be a leak somewhere. Another thing to look at is when you shut the car off, pop the bonnet and feel the carby - you may have icing issues causing the piston in the carby to stick and not return to the bridge. Canberra was notorious for it - Adelaide will be getting pretty cool right about now.

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

_________________
Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

No you dont need to remove the engine to replace either a manifold gasket or a clutch assembly. Both are, as you say, a bitch to do. Lots of bending and turning a nut a flat at a time.

A few things will cause an engine to cut out on a trailing throttle. An engine sucking air will generally have a rising and falling of revs at idle and thats a fairly good diagnostic hint. The exception is a gross air leak and then an engine will be hard to start and reluctant to run on less than half throttle.

Check the basics before you run in and change gaskets - check the electrical parts of the ignition system - that the low tension leads are firmly and cleanly connected. Check the ints and their gap. Check the resistance of the coil's high tension lead (and each of the high tension leads), check the spark plug condition and gap. Check that fuel system has no leaks.

Rarely is a tuning problem something obscure - its usually something fundamental or a collection of fundamental problems. Its also a very much cheaper fix.

No you dont need to remove the engine to replace either a manifold gasket or a clutch assembly. Both are, as you say, a bitch to do. Lots of bending and turning a nut a flat at a time.

A few things will cause an engine to cut out on a trailing throttle. An engine sucking air will generally have a rising and falling of revs at idle and thats a fairly good diagnostic hint. The exception is a gross air leak and then an engine will be hard to start and reluctant to run on less than half throttle.

Check the basics before you run in and change gaskets - check the electrical parts of the ignition system - that the low tension leads are firmly and cleanly connected. Check the ints and their gap. Check the resistance of the coil's high tension lead (and each of the high tension leads), check the spark plug condition and gap. Check that fuel system has no leaks.

Rarely is a tuning problem something obscure - its usually something fundamental or a collection of fundamental problems. Its also a very much cheaper fix.

No you dont need to remove the engine to replace either a manifold gasket or a clutch assembly. Both are, as you say, a bitch to do. Lots of bending and turning a nut a flat at a time.

A few things will cause an engine to cut out on a trailing throttle. An engine sucking air will generally have a rising and falling of revs at idle and thats a fairly good diagnostic hint. The exception is a gross air leak and then an engine will be hard to start and reluctant to run on less than half throttle.

Check the basics before you run in and change gaskets - check the electrical parts of the ignition system - that the low tension leads are firmly and cleanly connected. Check the ints and their gap. Check the resistance of the coil's high tension lead (and each of the high tension leads), check the spark plug condition and gap. Check that fuel system has no leaks.

Rarely is a tuning problem something obscure - its usually something fundamental or a collection of fundamental problems. Its also a very much cheaper fix.

sorry my imputs are not working properly - giving me an error and then repeating - sorry

its no quite that bad.. although i do notice it following on a alittle bit sometimes after i turn the car off.. but not all the time.... but the timing has been checked and the head gasket just replaced...

Its like an echo in here - I got the same warning too...

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

sounds like a sticky carb piston

Totally agree Mike...and add...check Rubber Hoses for splits and leaks etc

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maybe dont drive around with 5 people in a 4 seater car

ps. sorry i have no knowledge and have to be a smart ass

cheers for the info.. ill get onto it once i get back from melbourne... this weekend...