I've recently been looking around for a pulsar dizzy, and ive been coming up with all these variables when ive been looking around...

n13 1.5litre manual distributor
n14 import 1.6 manual distributor
and an n12 1.5 litre manual distributor

none have been able to confirm the D4R85 number.

just wondering if any of these are suitable or it has to be the n12 d4r85 off a 1.6 litre manuals pulsar??

any help would be appreciated!

thanks

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a girlfriend would be cheaper

The D4R85 has too much advance for the average mini

I`d be looking for a D4R80 or 81 if i were you

otherwise you might have to mess with the weights/springs & stopper inside the thing to have it all swing right for you

too much advance is "NOT" a good thing for an A series, especially with the crap fuel we get these days

& for all of you allready with a D4R85, then i`d recomend you have it graphed to make sure it`s not getting 45 deg of advance (or thereabouts)

happy hunting

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Most Mini motors run pretty well with full advance setting around 30* at crank total advance at 4000rpm and above.

re the Pulsar dizzys, it's the D4R83 (N12 Pulsar auto) that really has too much advance, at 16* (dizzy degrees) = 32 crank degrees. But, there are heaps of these dizzys about. Just don't get carried away with the static advance or as Matt says it'll be too much.

The D4R85 (N12 Pulsar manual) has 12* (24 at crank) and I find it ideal for worked motors, particularly 1275s and up.
A 6* static advance setting will get you the 30* total, at full centrifugal advance.

A D4R81 (according to a chart that WAS on the net) has 10* at dizzy , this would be OK too but good luck finding one in Oz.
I thought I had found one in a Nissan Sentra, bought it, took it home and cleaned it ... found it's another D4R83. Bugger...

I've not found the later Pulsars (GMH motor)will fit, the drive setup is different shape and too short for a Mini.

Early N12s had points ignition, you can tell these from the cap, which has clips, not the 2 screw type we want.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

85 in my 1152 and still do not have a dramer with it and I have not touched it in over 12 months

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Doc,

This * thing still gets me confused. I found a D4R85 off a pulsar exa - I think thats what the motor was out of...

It reads D4R85 -15. Does this mean it has 15 dizzy degrees and 30* at crank ?? Would that be suitable for a direct swap into a 998 near stock engine??

TasTYger

The `-15' is a code for the vac advance can. Not the mech advance. There were various vac cans used.
Yes an 85 has 12* at dizzy & will be OK on a 998. Better than an 83, if you can find em.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

just saying that i`d have them checked before just shoving it in there, driving it & simply "Assuming" that it`s right.

The few D4R85`s that i have seen have swung up over 40+ degs.

makes you think/realise that not all 2nd hand dizzys are stock std & in perfect working order with the correct advance curve to suit your mini`s engine. That`s why there are so many different types of that same Hitachi dizzy avaliable.

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Yes it all has to be done with a timing light to make sure it is advancing enough at the right curve.

Ask for it by part number. It should say D4R85 on the body of the dissy. You want an N2 Manual one...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

thanks for the info

let the hunting begin i say!

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a girlfriend would be cheaper