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 Post subject: Breaks
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 9:16 am 
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998cc
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Location: Ballarat, Victoria
Simple Question..
If i upgraded my clubbie from a 998 to a 1275, would i need to get disk breaks as well... not just from a safety standpoint, but for victorian registration purposes?

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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 9:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 9:12 am
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Not entirely 100% sure of Victorian standpoint but NSW you need to and as far as I know most states you need to , except SA where they don't do annual inspections .

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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 9:44 am 
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For every state in Australia, you are required to have disk brakes if you have a 1275 - thems the breaks.

However, when you do the engine change bit, you would need some sort of qualified inspector to verify the new engine number. Most of them dont know what their looking at and wouldn't think of checking for disc brakes.

From the safety point of view - there is a world of difference between a 1275 and a 998. Its just indescribable how much more go a 1275 has and you will use that performance and the day will will come when you need the brakes and the drums will just not do the job.

Get the discs before you get the 1275. It could be me that you need the brakes to stop for.


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 9:49 am 
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998cc
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Mike_Byron wrote:
Get the discs before you get the 1275. It could be me that you need the brakes to stop for.

My plan has always been to put disc breaks on, i was just trying to figure out whether not it was a breaks now, engine later thing on the other way around... i guess this has answered my question.

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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 10:04 am 
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1275cc
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A couple of comments on the disc brakes.
Fitting them is not such a big job - about an hour per side, if you have all the right bits and the right tools (such as a ball joint splitter).

The disc assembly needs to be in good shape and experience has shown that its usually better to buy a new or fully reconditioned system than a second hand set and end up paying twice. I notice you have a clubbie and that the garbox should be the rod change type with pot joints. If you get the Cooper type discs then you will need to knock the drive shafts out of the drum brake CV's and have them fitted to the disc brake CV's.

Apart from the driveshafts, there is virtually nothing else that is usable from the drum brake setup. Also you need to fit Cooper S type wheel cylinders to the rear wheels otherwise you will lock up the rears and loop the car the first time you do a big panic stop . Embarrassing in four lanes of freeway traffic.

The cooper brakes are 7.5 in type and will fit under 10" wheels. The 8.4" brakes will require 12" wheels and although pundits will argue, there is little braking performance difference.

NOW - the good bits - you dont need a power booster especially- the disc brakes will really transform the car. They are really quite a different dynamic on a mini and effectively halves the braking distance in normal safe driving. You have to teach yourself not to start going for the brakes so far before the corner (or whatever).


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 10:10 am 
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are cooper 7.5" discs the only option? or can 8.4" disc break systems from other smaller cars be used?
also what sort of price would i be looking at for a full set of reconditioned disc breaks?

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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 10:43 am 
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I have done this, upgraded to 7.5's before getting a 1275 and I reckon it is by far the best thing I've done performance wise. You can drive the car with much more confidence, brake later and not have to worry about fade. My drums were in good condition and stopped well, but discs transformed the car.

Yes you can use other discs types like 8.4's but you will then need bigger wheels which will add to the cost.

If you are running on 10's then Cooper S 7.5's or Cooper 7" are a must, the later being OK apparently (just slightly better than drums).

No need for booster, you can have one but they work just as well as is.

You can buy a brand new set of 7.5's for about $1600-1700. Highly recommend that you do this as apposed to buying second hand sets for $800+ and having to spend a further $600 to rebuild/rekit everything depending on what state they are in (been there, done that, spent $1400 on a second hand set and a lot of heartache only to end up with... second hand brakes :wink: ).

Also you will have to change the rear brake cylinders as well to smaller Cooper S cylinders or risk locking up the back brakes before the front lock up. So keep that in mind as it will mean more cash...

In the end it is worthwhile. Pretty cheap when you think about it. If you were converting say, a commodore it will cost double maybe tripple that price :shock:

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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 10:57 am 
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Brakes (brakes is the correct spelling) from other cars can be made to fit and Honda Civic discs seems to be a common conversion but it has drawbacks.

1. They are not the system designed for a mini - they are modified to fit
2. In most cases you need an engineers certificate to say that its safe and that alone will add hundreds to the cost.
3. If you choose not to get an engineers certificate and are subsequently involved in an accident and attention is drawn to the brakes then you risk your insurance policy being summarily cancelled.
4. The right brakes are the best investment and will even get you some discount with an insurer like shannons.

Now thats two of us that have said just how much disc brakes transforms a mini.


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PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 11:05 am 
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Not to rain on a parade or anything, but i bought a set of 8.4" discs off Steve@Brickworx for $xxx. (Call him for a price). It took me the afternoon to put them on and bleed up, including replacing CV boots, repacking inner CVs, etc.

The ones i got were 2nd hand. Straight off a running, driving car. I have put them on and had no worries at all. This is the second disc conversion i have done with second-hand parts, and i have never had a worry having to rebuild the calipers.

Your choice on whether you want 10" or 12" wheels. You will also need 'spaced' rear drums and studs so that the rear wheels stick out just as far as the fronts. Flares will be needed.

For 8.4" discs, you do not need to change the rear wheel cylinders.

Whilst i already had the wheels, i bought the brakes, rear cylinders (mine were stuffed) 4 tyres, flares, rear shoes, drums, and hubs (already with long studs) and it cost me $1250 all up, and it does drive like a new car. The braking performance is just amazing, and i would never drive a drum brake mini again. Now 4 of my 5 minis has had discs fitted.

DO IT!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 25, 2006 11:14 am 
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I had forgotten about the stepped drums as mine had them fitted anyway.

Yes - there is no arguement from anyone re 8.4s - they will and do work well. It just adds to the expense if you dont alraady have 12" wheels and tyres.

I also agree that if you buy second hand then buy from someone who will sell good condition items. For every success story with second hand disk brakes there are two others who bought shonkies cheaply (and in good faith) and ended up having to do a full recondition.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 9:11 am 
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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=19548 :wink:

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