As if I didn't have enough unfinished jobs on the Mini I started rebuilding the twin SU's tonight. Do I need to buy a special tool to get the needle seat out of the float chamber lid? or is there another trick to it? 3/8 is too big and 5/16 too small 9mm too big and 8mm too small can't grip it with a small shifter Gave meself a thumping big blood blister trying to grip it with pliers - so I am now pi**ed off.

The kit provides new bushes for the throttle spindle but I can't detect any movement with the new spindle in place would you still bother to drill out and fit the new bushes?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

re the needle valve seat I have an old cheapo 1/4 drive socket set, the sockets go up in 1/32nds.. one of 'em fits perfect!

If the new shaft is an OK fit in the body don't bother bushing it. Usually the original shaft wears more than the body does.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

EUREKA 11/32 is the size - socket bit from the electric drill kit

Thanks Kev

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I thought it was coz the bloody things are British Whitworth. is dat true?

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

No. That tomfoolery stopped back in the 50's. From late 50's on BMC went UNF and UNC.

Don't get me started on Whitworth..
Formula for spanner size was (1-3/4 x bolt dia), BS was (1-3/4 x bolt dia) - 1/16", no wonder the spanners and bolt heads were all weird sizes!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

And now the ADF has gone and bought their two new types of helicopters which are in Metric(Bloody Frogs). Metric bits were never meant to fit on a mini. I likes the helicopters I work on in AF.

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

We have full sets of whitworth spanners. My father's Austin A40's are whitworth.

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Probably got some BSF threads in there too....

They sank along with the British Empire.. never seen them used lately.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ooooooooh, just imagine if they used BSPT on any lines (Shudders).

Yuckyyyyyyyyy

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"He's always been a dickhead, He always is a dickhead, He will always be a dickhead. So stop complaining when he acts like one."

Hmmm I think you'll find the thread on the Mini's oil pressure switch is BSP. No it's not NPT, that's a tad bigger...

Nothin' wrong with BSP- it's even the Metric Standard for pipe threads. They call it R1/8, R1/4, R3/8, etc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Back to the topic - more questions.

Is the special tool needed to centre the needle/jet or is there an 'backyarders' method?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I use backyard method #1 for SUs with fixed needles...
Eyeball it from above to centre it, leave nut finger tight. Drop the piston & bell in, tighten screws up.
Try the lifting pin. If it drops with a clunk, beauty. If not, loosen the nut and retighten. Repeat as needed- you might have to do this a few times, even push the jet assembly about before retightening nut.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

DONE - you're the Doc - ya blood's worth bottlin'

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Another question or two:

Having done one and nearly finished the other I can now compare the two - assuming both have to be identical in a twin set up.

The first one the new butterfly valve sits snugly when closed - no light showing around it's circumference - the second has a slight halo of light when closed only touching in a couple of places. Does it matter?

The Piston in the first sits flat on the bridge no light showing through - the second does not seal down on the bridge and light shows through. There is a small plastic plug in the bottom of the piston which the second one sits on while in the first the plug is below the surface. In the drawings this plug does not seem to "plug" anything is it important?

Also are there Right and Left pistons? The brass lug in the side of the piston chamber is on opposite sides which means that in one, the air bled holes in the bottom of the piston face the front and the back on the other.- Does this matter?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

Doc, I still have some BA spintights (box spanners with handles!) from the old days - surprisingly handy!!

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"Show me the Mini!"