I have 8.4 disc brakes on the mini and I am wondering how much better will they be boosted? How much do booster sell for?

The booster only makes the pedal easier to push rather than increasing the brakes ability , it'll make them feel like a more modern car though as everything now uses a booster to make the pedal easier . Not sure on prices but from what I've been told they are expensive to rebuild so get a good one rather than a cheapie to rebuild , unless it's a real cheapie ....

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Seen them listed on Ebay every now and then, New for about $400-450. I recently got a change over unit fitted as the oldie was cactus, set me back $245 thru my local breake joint.

i guess it will be something i will look at doing down the track..... Is that a new one or second had price?

i had mine reconditioned about three weeks ago. cost me $230. its worth getting done but as long as they are working ok i wouldn't rush into. Its not a necessity, just feels like a newer car

I sold a good working one for about NZ$120 earlier in the year. That seems to be about normal. For some reason people spend more trying to get 'cooper' ones or whatever but one out of a lot of Brit cars would do.

Anyway, the reason I sold was I prefer the feel without it. As stated it feels like a 'modern' car, however the reason I love driving minis is because of the directness. Steering, suspension.....and braking - not some airy fairy squishy pedal.

What pads do you have on the brakes now? changing to a better pad may/will increase the braking ability somewhat so you may not need a brake booster...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I've just replaced the MC with a reco one, rebled the brakes and deglazed the rotors (never put on new disks with new rotors at the same time). Now with greenstuffs she stops pretty well. Without the booster there's a feeling there that the brakes are ineffective but you just gotta remember that like all old cars they need a decent shove to work. There is a long "soft area" at the start of the pedal travel where only the rear brakes really working and it appears that the braking is week, but just push beyound that and the fronts grab and the car does really stop.

I actualy preffer it w/o the booster as with modern cars w/o ABS I find it too easy to lock the wheels - might be coz I'm big enough to press hard or because I drive a mini w/o a booster every day. (I think its an issue car manufacturers have been grappling with as brake boosters have been getting more and more effective since the 70s, and more and more accidents were caused by cars skidding with the wheels locked - ABS was in development mostly to solve this problem).

I just fitted 8.4 discs to my LS a month ago with the EBC Green pads and thought about putting on a booster but decided not to now as the feel of the brake pedal is great.

I sold a complete reco booster for $120 not long back.....
I think people are unsure what degree of reco people are selling.

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Jay: 0431404607

I myself wouldn't bother with a booster. I love the feel of my 8.4" discs without a booster. Saying that, if for the sheer fact you want it to be easyer to drive, ie more like a modern car, then put the booster on.

Racers take the booster off so they feel the brakes better.

Another thing is try road pads, such as EBC black, rather than say the EBC green. The greens take a bit to get up to temp, so seems like ya jumping on the pedal to get it to stop!

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Mike - I read this in the morning today - and was thinking about it on the way to work - do you have 5/8" bore slave cylinders on the back of your car? if you can feel the back brakes working before the fronts do, then it's likely you still have 11/16" slaves on the back and they will have a tendency to lock before the fronts, and in the wrong situation could send you spinning - say if you were on a bit of sandy road and tried to brake, if you changed into 3rd gear from 4th and the rear-end lifted then you hit the brakes... can be very dangerous..... it's happened to me with disks and 11/16" rears - changing to 5/8 rears improved the way the disks worked too - improved it a lot

I found ebc greenstuffs no good for the road too - took too much heat to make them work

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Most Deluxes etc here got 3/4" rears which are even worse than 11/16" Simon mentioned.
Changing from 3/4" to 5/8" rear wheel cylinders gives a reduction in piston area (and rear braking force) of ~30%.
I finally did Barney recently, after having a `moment' on the F3...


re the Greenstuffs, I finally changed the sintered remains of Ha-Ha's old Greenstuffs for a new set, machined the rotors and YES! Much better...

I do use Blackstuffs in Barney- better inital bite, but they fade easy if pushed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.