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How to put adjustable camber caster brackets on rear? https://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19771 |
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Author: | Matt68 [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 4:10 pm ] |
Post subject: | How to put adjustable camber caster brackets on rear? |
Just got a set of adjustable camber and caster brackets for the rear of the mini (1968 hydro deluxe). Any tips on fitting them? Body is on stands with subframes attached, and hydro is depressurised. What do I do next? ![]() Matt |
Author: | clubmn [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 4:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | mm1275 |
It really is quite simple. You have to fit stands under the body of the car (not the subframe), and also stands under the subframe, a little lower than the car. Simple undo the large nut (with the grease nipple on it) then un do the 4 subframe bolts 2 inner and 2 under...do this on both sides.. You can then slide out the old bracket and refit the new type.. Did you get these secondhand, cause the usually have instructions. |
Author: | Matt68 [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 4:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I've never played with the rear subframe before, so wasn't really sure about it. Does the fact it is hydro make any differences? Was new, no instructions though from Mini spares UK, I think there's instructions on their website, just wanted some friendly 'local' advice first! Cheers ![]() Matt |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 7:10 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Makes no difference, hydro or dry. Also there's no need really to depressurise the hydro for this job, unless you are pulling other bits out. ![]() |
Author: | 9YaTaH [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 8:43 pm ] |
Post subject: | Wet and Dry |
So...the verdict is....rear negative cambers kits are worthwhile Wet and Dry Doc??? |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 8:48 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Well Mick I run about 0.5* on mine, no camber kit. Most I've seen are flimsy. Got a mill, MIG welder and I'm a good filer... and I understand basic geometry and trig. ![]() |
Author: | 9YaTaH [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 9:58 pm ] |
Post subject: | Washer! |
drmini in aust wrote: Well Mick I run about 0.5* on mine, no camber kit. Most I've seen are flimsy.
Got a mill, MIG welder and I'm a good filer... and I understand basic geometry and trig. ![]() Ok...so even welding a washer is good....Mini's need negative camber on the rear...end of story!! ![]() |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:20 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Washer! |
9YaTaH wrote: drmini in aust wrote: Well Mick I run about 0.5* on mine, no camber kit. Most I've seen are flimsy. Got a mill, MIG welder and I'm a good filer... and I understand basic geometry and trig. ![]() Ok...so even welding a washer is good....Mini's need negative camber on the rear...end of story!! ![]() Nope, no good old fashioned washer welding on here... that's too butcherous for me. ![]() I mill the standard bracket hole upwards by the secret amount, weld up bottom of hole, then mill or file the hole until the shaft is a neat fit again.. Just as strong as original, and it can't move out of `adjustment'. Beware though, you need to know the previous camber figures before you start milling & filing. ![]() |
Author: | 9YaTaH [ Fri Jun 02, 2006 11:36 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Washer! |
drmini in aust wrote: 9YaTaH wrote: drmini in aust wrote: Well Mick I run about 0.5* on mine, no camber kit. Most I've seen are flimsy. Got a mill, MIG welder and I'm a good filer... and I understand basic geometry and trig. ![]() Ok...so even welding a washer is good....Mini's need negative camber on the rear...end of story!! ![]() Nope, no good old fashioned washer welding on here... that's too butcherous for me. ![]() I mill the standard bracket hole upwards by the secret amount, weld up bottom of hole, then mill or file the hole until the shaft is a neat fit again.. Just as strong as original, and it can't move out of `adjustment'. Beware though, you need to know the previous camber figures before you start milling & filing. ![]() After 40 odd years there is still a "secret amount"....my bad ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Matt68 [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 10:01 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks Doc, Had to depressurise the suspension to put some packing washers on the front! Even at the right pressure, the rear had 4 fingers clearance and the front only 2! (Between top of tyre and gaurd) Just evening her up a little! The plan with thwe adjustable rear brackets is to get them set perfect, then weld them so they become non-adjustable! No movement issues ![]() Matt |
Author: | minstar [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:47 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Mine has postive camber and caster on the back and it handles brilliantly (NOT!). No 423 on list of things to do... ![]() M |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Matt68 wrote: Thanks Doc,
Had to depressurise the suspension to put some packing washers on the front! Even at the right pressure, the rear had 4 fingers clearance and the front only 2! (Between top of tyre and gaurd) Just evening her up a little! Matt Usual cause of the rear high and front low problem is the rear helper springs gone weak. They are there to pull the back down, which displaces fluid to the front and raises it. Later ones are stronger and color coded orange I think. |
Author: | Matt68 [ Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:57 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Cheers Doc, I tried that. I changed the springs and the ride height was pretty much the same. A little better, but really no difference. So, a packing washer on each knuckle joint, and Robert is married to my dad's sister! (I hope, car still in the air, suspension depressurised at the moment... ![]() Matt |
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