Just got a set of adjustable camber and caster brackets for the rear of the mini (1968 hydro deluxe).

Any tips on fitting them? Body is on stands with subframes attached, and hydro is depressurised.

What do I do next?


Matt

It really is quite simple.

You have to fit stands under the body of the car (not the subframe), and also stands under the subframe, a little lower than the car.

Simple undo the large nut (with the grease nipple on it) then un do the 4 subframe bolts 2 inner and 2 under...do this on both sides..

You can then slide out the old bracket and refit the new type.. Did you get these secondhand, cause the usually have instructions.

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I've never played with the rear subframe before, so wasn't really sure about it.

Does the fact it is hydro make any differences?

Was new, no instructions though from Mini spares UK, I think there's instructions on their website, just wanted some friendly 'local' advice first!

Cheers

Matt

Makes no difference, hydro or dry.
Also there's no need really to depressurise the hydro for this job, unless you are pulling other bits out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So...the verdict is....rear negative cambers kits are worthwhile Wet and Dry Doc???

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"Show me the Mini!"

Well Mick I run about 0.5* on mine, no camber kit. Most I've seen are flimsy.
Got a mill, MIG welder and I'm a good filer... and I understand basic geometry and trig.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Ok...so even welding a washer is good....Mini's need negative camber on the rear...end of story!!

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"Show me the Mini!"

Nope, no good old fashioned washer welding on here... that's too butcherous for me.
I mill the standard bracket hole upwards by the secret amount, weld up bottom of hole, then mill or file the hole until the shaft is a neat fit again..
Just as strong as original, and it can't move out of `adjustment'.
Beware though, you need to know the previous camber figures before you start milling & filing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

After 40 odd years there is still a "secret amount"....my bad ....Carn, the Doc, make it a stickey for all to see. Sheesh, Minis need to track good from the rear...because....well because...the arse end is what most other cars get to follow through the twisty bits

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"Show me the Mini!"

Thanks Doc,

Had to depressurise the suspension to put some packing washers on the front! Even at the right pressure, the rear had 4 fingers clearance and the front only 2! (Between top of tyre and gaurd)

Just evening her up a little!

The plan with thwe adjustable rear brackets is to get them set perfect, then weld them so they become non-adjustable! No movement issues


Matt

Mine has postive camber and caster on the back and it handles brilliantly (NOT!). No 423 on list of things to do...

M

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Usual cause of the rear high and front low problem is the rear helper springs gone weak. They are there to pull the back down, which displaces fluid to the front and raises it.
Later ones are stronger and color coded orange I think.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cheers Doc, I tried that.

I changed the springs and the ride height was pretty much the same. A little better, but really no difference. So, a packing washer on each knuckle joint, and Robert is married to my dad's sister!

(I hope, car still in the air, suspension depressurised at the moment... )

Matt