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PostPosted: Wed Jul 05, 2006 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 9:53 pm
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Location: Maryborough Qld.
Hey y'all

Im tkaing out the old engine in my mini at the moment and i am putting in the engine from my mini that I crashed. What I was wondering was....... what gasket sets will I need if any because i cud get some gasket material then just make one??????? No?????????

just a thought.

I am switching the engine out of the mini but keeping the rod change box and putting in the spare engine from the other mini i crashed and taking off the remote box ,,,,,,,,, comprehenday?

Pat

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 9:40 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 08, 2004 9:27 pm
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
order a gasket 'conversion set' - just call a mini place and ask them what set you'll need

if you want an itemised list....

side cover gasket
engine to gearbox gasket
engine to gearbox O ring
rear main seal
engine to gearbox semi circle rubber for the front
probably a few more I can't think of...

it's not a job to be taken lightly - would be easier and a better result to stick put the remote change box in your car - they always have a better gearchange

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:18 am 
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You have got to get the rear main seal exactly right otherwise it WILL leak oil all over the clutch. Order two in case you stuff the first one. Its difficult to get it to sit properly over the primary gear. I use some cardboard cut from a kellogs box to get the seal lips to sit properly. Its very very important to get it right.

You are aware that the clutch and fly wheel must be removed from both power plants to do the swap and that you will need a flywheel removing tool. ????

As said - much easier to swap to remote gear change - even if you have to swap the drive shafts as well.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:23 am 
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WHichever gearbox you use , replace the seals where the driveshafts come out of the diff anyway and if you use the rod change box replace the rod change seal as well . These are a lot easier to change when the motor's sitting on the floor than when it's in the car , they may not need changing yet but you'd be rightly P'd off if you didn't replace them and they failed a few months later .

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 10:25 am 
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Location: Wodonga - Vic/NSW border
Mike_Byron wrote:
You have got to get the rear main seal exactly right otherwise it WILL leak oil all over the clutch. Order two in case you stuff the first one. Its difficult to get it to sit properly over the primary gear. I use some cardboard cut from a kellogs box to get the seal lips to sit properly. Its very very important to get it right.
.


good point... I always wrap the primary gear in wide electrical tape when I put the side cover on... then carefully pull the tape out after it's seated properly

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:17 pm 
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Thanks for all the help guys...... I changed my mind and am just going to put the remote change in and take out the rod........ with engines attached so there willl be no need for gasket sets....... What I need to know is wat torque is the timing chain pulley retaining bolt torqued to?

Pat

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:33 pm 
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Timing chain pulley ????? - give me another description
Do you mean the harmonic balancer ??? - its the one that is external to the timing chain cover and also has a groove in which the fan belt sits. This is the fan belt that goes also to the cooling fan and the alternator / generator.

If its the harmonic balancer - then it probably has a tension in the manual (as do wheel nuts) but doing it up tight is enough.

I do have a manual if its another nut or you specifically a tension wrench setting


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:48 pm 
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Have you ever taken out a rod change power plant. ??????

You need to undo and drop the top ball joint and pull the assembly outwards. This will he ball and cage clear the pot joint. Careful not to lose or damage the big ball bearings. Drifting out the pins holding the rod change at the gearbox is a pain. Get the right sized drift pin and bang away with a medium sized hammer.

To change the drive shafts - undo the big nut on the drums / disk. With the shafts undone at the gearbox end, withdraw the shaft and CV towards and below the gearbox. Once its out, its (driveshaft) is only held in the CV by a retaining circlip. A few big whacks in a downward direction witha FBH will separate the drive shaft from the CV. Reassembly is just the reverse but make sure it physically clicks into position.

If it wont separate easy - then dont destroy it with enthusiasm and a bigger FBH. Take it to a garage who has a specially shaped CV separator. Sometimes they just dont separate - not common but it happens.

If you need more information - just pm


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:08 am 
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thaqnks for the help mike.....

Umm yer the external pulley that has the fan belt groove thingy...... :lol:

Umm at the moment I am putting my new head together and then putting that on the motor and then droping it in.

I replaced the drive shafts from pot type to uni joint type and it wasn't that hard I did all the stuff mentioned before even reading this post because it was plain to me to see that they needed to be seperated........... 8) yay for me :lol: :lol:

So anyway back to work


Pat

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 Post subject: It's In
PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:08 am 
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it is all in and done and working and I'm so happy I did it all by my little lonsome.................... With a few words of advice from my oldie and a bit of help from my mate................. but it is all turning over and working.............but not very well........I am preety sure that it is a problem with the carby cus it would break down ........ but it would run fine-ish wen cold then it would warm up a bit and start to spurt and stutter and then finally stop ........ any ideas....... the old boy thinks it might be vapour lock.

Im just so happy that I got it done a lot of experience gained from doing that I tell ya..........

Pat

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