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 Post subject: Adjusting rockers
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 3:54 pm 
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1275cc
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We all know that you set the gap on a standard sort of mini engine to 12 thou. when they're cold.

My question is in two parts :-

1) Can you set them when they're hot????

2) What would be the gap when hot????

Thanks boys and girls.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:12 pm 
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Yes you can when hot, about 1-2 thou difference when hot (so it 12 then 11) or there abouts. Best to do them cold...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 4:21 pm 
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Don't know about hot vs cold but I was shown years ago to adjust them with the engine running. Don't know how 'koscher' it is engineering wise but it sure is quick. Have the lock nuts loosened and just nipped up. then with the engine ideling just slip the feeler gauge in the gap and it should be able to pull though with just gentle pressure. . You use a ring spanner/screw driver as normal but keep the engine running and when you get used to the process it is a lot quicker than turning the engine over by hand and working out which valve is open and which is closed

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:37 pm 
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best to run most road mini engines at 15thou clearance & do them via the "Rule of nine"

fully open #one, & adjust #8... ---> one plus eight = 9

etc etc etc

& no,,, you don`t have to start with #one, you can start wherever the donk is when you take the rocker cover off,,,

so, lets just say for example that if # 3 is nearly fully open, then just turn the donk over a tad more till it`s wide open, & then adjust #6---> three plus six = 9 (doesn`t it?) :-)

you get the idea???

It`s just so easy-peasy that way tho

open #7 & adjust #2

open #5 & adjust #4

etc etc etc

& if you`re really smart, you can actually see how the valves open in sequence in relation to the crank & work out all the "Suck, Squeez, Bang, Blow" part of how piston engines actually work :-)

yeah??? get it???

Ok,,, i`m done,,,, if you havn`t got it after all that then get someone else to do it for you :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 5:45 pm 
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Wombat wrote:
Don't know about hot vs cold but I was shown years ago to adjust them with the engine running. Don't know how 'koscher' it is engineering wise but it sure is quick. Have the lock nuts loosened and just nipped up. then with the engine ideling just slip the feeler gauge in the gap and it should be able to pull though with just gentle pressure. . You use a ring spanner/screw driver as normal but keep the engine running and when you get used to the process it is a lot quicker than turning the engine over by hand and working out which valve is open and which is closed


Let me get this right, you can do the valve tappets when the engine is running??? GET OUT NO WAY!!! Serious? it's bouncing up and down at like 4-5 times a second, not to mention the hot oil being thrown around everywhere... how do you tighten them up when the rocker is going up and down at like a million miles an hour??

Are you talking about the same thing???

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:08 pm 
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Location: Western Australia
The first time I did my rocker/tappet clearance (way back when I didn't know anything) I had a mates dad help me (he's a mechanic) and he got me to adjust them with the engine running... don't remember much about it though... about a week later I brought a service manual and have done it by "the rule of nine" as per the book since then...

I reckon if you want to know the clearance when the engine is warm (so you can adjust in the future when warm) set them cold, then warm up the engine and check them :wink: just makes sense to me...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 7:11 pm 
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Lillee wrote:
Wombat wrote:
Don't know about hot vs cold but I was shown years ago to adjust them with the engine running. Don't know how 'koscher' it is engineering wise but it sure is quick. Have the lock nuts loosened and just nipped up. then with the engine ideling just slip the feeler gauge in the gap and it should be able to pull though with just gentle pressure. . You use a ring spanner/screw driver as normal but keep the engine running and when you get used to the process it is a lot quicker than turning the engine over by hand and working out which valve is open and which is closed


Let me get this right, you can do the valve tappets when the engine is running??? GET OUT NO WAY!!! Serious? it's bouncing up and down at like 4-5 times a second, not to mention the hot oil being thrown around everywhere... how do you tighten them up when the rocker is going up and down at like a million miles an hour??

Are you talking about the same thing???

Chong, back in the 50s it was the accepted way to do FJ-FB Holdens, if you wanted quiet tappets- yes it works, I used to do it too. 8)
But you want it ticking over, like 400-500 rpm. No way you will do yours at 1300... :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 8:59 pm 
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Oil at the top of the engine comes out between the rocker shaft and the arms and mounts in more of a dribble that a spray. Take your cover off one day and have a look, it really is quite interresting. Must try that adjustment technique one day just to see how it goes. :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:18 pm 
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I was taught with the engine running as well - but with lumpier cams its harder.

having said that - I always check a tapprt adjustment by starting the motor and shoving the feeler gauges into the tappets to check the accuracy of our setting. You think you have them right but varius factors make them wrong.

You simply note which ones are loose and which ones are tight (the motor struggles when you stick the feelers into a tight one and the tap tap tap stops when you stick it into a loose one).

Do it a couple of times and you get it right. Oil splash - negible

Hots cams - naw do it the proper was with a cam protractor (dial cirlce and a dial gauge.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 12:25 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Manly NSW
Hi Rod remember me telling you about this ?
I'm prolly gonna order one (have an Ezibleed already) Gunson's quality is pretty good.

http://www.gunsons.co.uk/product.asp?u= ... &deptid=13

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:48 pm 
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MiniBob wrote:
Hi Rod remember me telling you about this ?
I'm prolly gonna order one (have an Ezibleed already) Gunson's quality is pretty good.

http://www.gunsons.co.uk/product.asp?u= ... &deptid=13


Try this, a bit closer to home and will work out cheaper.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... Track=true
Cheers Pete

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:38 pm 
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Thanks for the replies there folks - I know how to do the job (rule of 9 and so on) but I was just curious about the measurement, say 10 or 11 thou ??????

Cheers

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 4:40 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Lillee wrote:
Wombat wrote:
Don't know about hot vs cold but I was shown years ago to adjust them with the engine running. Don't know how 'koscher' it is engineering wise but it sure is quick. Have the lock nuts loosened and just nipped up. then with the engine ideling just slip the feeler gauge in the gap and it should be able to pull though with just gentle pressure. . You use a ring spanner/screw driver as normal but keep the engine running and when you get used to the process it is a lot quicker than turning the engine over by hand and working out which valve is open and which is closed


Let me get this right, you can do the valve tappets when the engine is running??? GET OUT NO WAY!!! Serious? it's bouncing up and down at like 4-5 times a second, not to mention the hot oil being thrown around everywhere... how do you tighten them up when the rocker is going up and down at like a million miles an hour??

Are you talking about the same thing???

Chong, back in the 50s it was the accepted way to do FJ-FB Holdens, if you wanted quiet tappets- yes it works, I used to do it too. 8)
But you want it ticking over, like 400-500 rpm. No way you will do yours at 1300... :lol:


:shock: :shock: :shock: Learn a new thing every day... :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:06 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2005 2:00 am
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Location: Sydney
Old Holden engines, Grey and Red with hydraulic lifters were adjusted with the engine warm and idling as you wound the rocker post pivot up and down to get them silent. ( quiet plus 3/4 turn of the lock nut) On sloid lifter cams you had to wind the engine over by hand and if I remember correctly with cold or hot clerances. The first car I saw being adjusted running was a Zephyr wagon by the older teenager acros the road. With spurts of oil spraying out the top of the rockers it definitly impressed us.
Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 6:12 pm 
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All grey Holdens up to EJ were solid lifter cams, they had a real rocker shaft, just like a Mini.
The red motor (EH onwards) had the hydraulic cam, and ball type rocker posts. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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